A Brit practicing his patience in Saigon, Vietnam

Living and working in Vietnam's Ho Chi Minh City, otherwise known as Saigon, didn't figure in British expat Emile's plans at all. But his work as a film editor brought him to Vietnam, and now he is making the best of his time there. It's turning out to be quite an experience, one that has its ups and downs, as Emile describes in his story.

 

Emile

-Where were you born?

I was born in London, UK before moving to the countryside for much of my teenage years and then moving back to London for work.

-In which country and city are you living now?

Now I am living in Saigon, Vietnam.

-Are you living alone or with your family?

Alone.

-How long have you been living there?

For almost a year. Arrived February 2009.

-What is your age?

33, heading toward 34. 

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Vietnam?

I never planned to come and live in Saigon! Before this, I had been living in Singapore for over 2 years and when I applied for a new job there, I was told the position was actually in their Vietnam branch.

I remember vividly the decision-making I had to go through when I learnt about the possibility of relocating - at that time I was mostly happy in Singapore, although working as a freelancer meant I was discovering the market was getting tougher and my chances of work were possibly diminishing. 

With no ties, and a natural appetite for curiosity, I decided to go with it. I flew up to Saigon for a two week trial period and really enjoyed it, despite the pretty big culture shock going from 'Asia-lite' Singapore.  

-Was it hard to get a visa or a work permit?

Not at all, my company took care of that. How much of it was above board I have no idea. Things are obviously done very differently in Vietnam compared to Singapore. 

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

As of now, I have no medical insurance. Though I have been trying to look for a good insurer. My company pays for doctor visits. 

-How do you make your living in Vietnam? Do you have any type of income generated?

The job was the reason for coming here. I work as a film-editor for a post-production company in District 3. All of our work is post-production for TV commercials for the Vietnamese market, and a few for the SE Asian region. 

I think I am possibly the only Brit doing what I am doing in the country, but if anyone can prove me wrong I'd love to hear from them. Most of our team are from overseas, and we all bring a lot of experience into the local market in an attempt to help the Vietnamese raise their standards of production. 

Having said that, there are some Vietnamese creative staff here who are very strong and sometimes I am learning from them also.

But to be honest, it can be very stressful working with local clients from big brands and advertising agencies. The culture differences play a big part and sometimes I wonder how the Vietnamese feel when they see that most of the production team on their commercials are from overseas.

It will change with time (a lot of time) but for now, there just isn't a strong local talent base here to meet the demand. What might take a few days to complete in Singapore or the UK might be strung out over weeks here.

-Do you speak Vietnamese and do you think it's important to speak the local language? 

It took me six weeks to learn how to pronounce my address for when speaking to taxi drivers. And another few weeks to realise that the tone was not quite right when I was saying 'thank you'. In short, Vietnamese is a nightmare to learn.
 
I would love to be able to speak some basic Vietnamese but with the complicated tonal structures, the rather ugly sound of the language and the fact you can usually find an English speaker somewhere, I don't plan to learn the language.
I do, however, always greet locals in the street in Vietnamese and thank them in Vietnamese.
 
-Do you miss home and family sometimes? Describe your favorite recreational activities there or those that are available.

More than when I was in Singapore, I miss home and family, yes. I am aware of my nieces and nephews growing up, and I do miss a fresh autumnal day in the UK countryside.

The thing about Saigon, is that to most Westerners, it has a certain 'romance' attached to it having been featured so much in literature and film over the last few decades. And of course there is the association with the war.

But for me, Saigon is like living in a real-life museum piece - the place is steeped in history, retains strong traditional cultural practices and despite its desire to modernise, the city for the most part still has that untouched, 'retro' SE Asian urban chaotic charm. 

In terms of entertainment and recreational activities, maybe I have not seen it all yet, but there is not a lot on offer. You could easily spend a year trying a new coffeeshop every night, and there is the odd park or two, some nice places to shop but for the most part Saigon is noisy, polluted and densely populated.

And I have no idea where the reputation for a simmering nightlife comes from. There are a few clubs around yes, I have had a lot of fun with friends in a few of these, but you got to take it with a pinch of salt  - it can all get a bit cheesy with the usual contingent of slimy western tourists thinking they're a demi-god with the local women. In time, a quality scene will probably emerge, but it's still some way off. Sigh... I guess I do miss London at times! 

It's unfair and crazy to compare Saigon to London, but having been brought up in one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world, I do find life here kind of monocultural and sometimes quite isolating. But you can see it changing, even in the short time I have been here. This is still a Communist country which I keep forgetting.

-Do you have other plans for the future? 

I certainly don't plan to settle here, at least not in Saigon. I am enjoying the ride, trying to see the positives and getting to grips with the local culture. 

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it? 

I am renting an apartment in Phu Nuan district, and despite it being one of the most densely areas of Saigon, I have found a great area that is so peaceful and very local. Before this, I was living on a very noisy street in district 3 and I didn't realise how damaging it was on my state of well being by never hearing any silence at any point of my day. This is indeed subjective, but to me, especially here, I need to know I can fully switch off the chaos by going home to some peace and quiet.

-What is the cost of living in Vietnam?

As everyone knows, the cost of living is cheap on the most part but it was not as cheap as I expected. 

-What do you think about the Vietnamese? 

On the whole, I have discovered that the Vietnamese, or at least the Saigonese, are a little cautious of Caucasians outside of District 1. I can understand that, as their history with the 'white man' has not always been so positive - ie their colonial past.  But of course time has moved on, and I just sense that the locals are a little timid at first, especially if it means they think they may need to use their English with a foreigner.

I am generally a very friendly person, am calm, polite and don't make a fuss. So in turn I usually get a good reception. But the Vietnamese are very different to the Filipinos or Thais in that it takes more time to kind of win their trust. 

When the locals get on the road and drive their bikes, that's another story. I swear another 'alter personality' kicks in and they turn into crazed maniacs with no sense of mortality. But I respect that. It's just the way it is.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Vietnam?

Positives: low cost of living, ease of getting around town (on my bike), rediscovering the real Saigon in the city's backstreets, the weather, low crime, and cafe sua da (iced coffee). And just making a life in Saigon, period.

Negatives: very monocultural (after a while), insane traffic, pollution, potholes in the road everywhere, traffic police, need to travel quite far out of Saigon for beautiful countryside, language barrier despite best will in the world to learn it, material aspiration among the young and the ever present undesirable western expats, often with young Vietnamese girls, both parties looking somewhat lost with a sense of 'how did I get here in my life?'

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Vietnam?

You can 'see and do' Saigon in about three days as a tourist, but it has taken me months to kind of experience it like no other place I been to. I am currently going through a love-hate relationship with the place which is partly down to the fact I never planned to come here, and am continuing my career over the desire to be the 'far out' western tourist reporting on their wild time in Saigon. It can be wild yes, but I am not seeking it out!
 
-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Vietnam?

Yes, I have really enjoyed Jon Hoff's blog on Vietnam - another Brit here, but far more experienced than I, and now married with a lovely daughter. 

http://itsthefinalword.blogspot.com

cool post

slimj83's picture

wow that was a good post about vietnam..I was wondering could you give me some advice?
can you tell me how hard is it to get a job out there in the media field...such as graphic design, adobe premiere and such...i'm from the states.north carolina to be exact.

Still need advice?

EmileG's picture

Hey there Slimj83, wow so sorry I never saw that you replied to my post back in October! Do you still need advice? So sorry again - never meant to ignore you.

Emile

Cable Service

Larsmj's picture

I will be living in Vietnam for a couple of years starting this May. I have searched the internet to find cost of getting an internet connection in my rental apartment/home when i find one. Can anyone give me idea of the cost. I have been to Vietnam a number of times and know that the internet is available, just not the cost and proceedure to get it connected to a resident.
Thanks if you can help

Hi there Emile Just

Flying High's picture

Hi there Emile

Just wondering how the love/hate relationship with Saigon is going?
I've been offered a job flying for Vietnam airlines based in Saigon so just on an info finding mission

Mark

Hi Emile, question for you

Candy's picture

I'm offered a possible job posting to Vietnam, I think Hanoi, but am unsure if I want to take it up. What made me write to you is that you worked in Singapore a couple years and basically I am from Singapore. Can you tell me more about your transition to Vietnam? Hopefully you can reply soon as my boss is waiting for my reply. Thanks!
Candy

Hey Mark

EmileG's picture

Thanks for the reply - I am maturing with the city now - things are feeling better overall. Partly because I am making regular hops to Singapore to restore my sanity!

Are you a pilot? Would love to hear more about how you're coming to living here.

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