Vietnam

There is no term in Vietnamese for Speech-Language Pathologist

Noel Simon

Originally from the USA, Noel and his wife are no strangers to expat life, having lived in several other places before moving to Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam. Read on to find out what he likes and dislikes about living in the city also known as Saigon, how he's progressing with the local language-learning, and his plans for his career as the only speech-language pathologist in HCMC.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

I was born in Canton, Ohio, USA around the time the first man walked on the moon.

-In which country and city are you living now?

Vietnam - Saigon - HCMC

-Are you living alone or with your family?

I'm here with my wife and our mini, black and tan dachshund.

-How long have you been living in Vietnam?

So far, I've been living here since August 1, 2009.

-What is your age?

I turned 40 five days after I moved here.  

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Vietnam?

My wife and I were living/working in Cairo, Egypt last year. We were traveling through Southeast Asia and attended the Search-Associates job fair in Bangkok.  We really didn't think much would come of it, but I walked away with an offer from Saigon South International School.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a work permit?

Visa?  No.  The school took care of it.  We sent our passports to the Vietnamese embassy in D.C. and they sent them back with 3-month, multi-entry visas.  Work permit? What work permit?  That's a little more complicated.  According to the school, we needed to get copies of our degrees and a police background check.  We had to have these notarized.  Then we had to have the notarization certified by the County Clerk.  Then we had to have them certified by the state level Department of State.  Lastly, we had to send them to the Vietnamese embassy to have them translated and certified again.  That's where the problem happened.  The embassy never returned them.  So, I've been here, working without a work permit.  I guess this is not uncommon.  When we go to the states this summer we'll try the process again and see if it works out better this time around.  If is works out how it's supposed to, we'll get a residence card and a 3-6 month, multi-entry visa.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

The school provided medical insurance through TieCare.

-How do you make your living in Vietnam? Do you have any type of income generated? 

Currently, I am working as the school wide speech-language pathologist.  Next year, I won't be at this school.  I'll be working privately in the community.  It turns out that I'm the only SLP in the city.  There isn't even a term for it in Vietnamese.

-Do you speak Vietnamese and do you think it's important to speak the local language? 

I've been taking Vietnamese lessons for about six months.  I've studied other languages before and I've become at least proficient at some.  Up until a couple of years ago, I spoke Russian pretty well.  I lived in Russia for two years and had to learn the language to survive as a lot of my friends there didn't speak English.  Before that I had studied French and German.  I thought that they were somewhat difficult, but Russian was in a difficulty league beyond them.  Then I studied Arabic in Egypt.  Arabic makes Russian look easy, but Vietnamese makes Arabic look easy.  No matter how accurately I try to pronounce the words, only my Vietnamese teacher seems to be able to understand me.  The easiest part of the language is that the alphabet is Roman.  So, at least I can read signs and menus as long as they contain words in my current vocabulary set.

In general, I think it's important for anyone living in as an expat to at least make a reasonable effort to learn the local language.  It is one of the most visible ways to show respect for that country's culture.  Unless you make the leap from expat to immigrant, you'll always be a guest in whichever country you're living in.  I've found that it's best to be a gracious guest.

 Having said that, practically, it will take a very large commitment to learn Vietnamese.  You can survive in the expat circles, the backpacker areas, and at most of the restaurants without it.  Even the Vietnamese understand how difficult it is and I've heard them say that, unless you're planning on spending more than three years here, you shouldn't try too hard if at all.  

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?

Sure.  However, with modern technology (Skype, email, Facebook, etc.), it lessens the absence.  Plus, since I'm on a teacher's schedule, I usually spend at least a month every summer visiting family and friends in the states.  Absence makes the heart grow fonder and all that.

-Do you have other plans for the future? 

One year at a time.  I'll see how next year goes with the private work.  If things are good, then we'll stay another year.  If not, then we'll probably try to hit another job fair and see what happens.  I do have plans to keep exploring this region of the world.  Flights in Southeast Asia are very reasonable.  So far I've visited Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore, Mayanmar, and the Philippines.  Next year I hope to make it to Nepal, China and maybe, just maybe Bhutan.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

Right now the school is providing housing; they're renting an apartment for us.  We currnetly live in District 7, in a neighborhood called Phu My Hung.  I guess it's a Taiwanese company that has a 50-year lease to turn the area into the next Singapore.  They're well on their way.  It's a big expat neighborhood, but few western expats.  Most of the expats are Korean or Taiwanese. 

Next year, my wife will be working at a different school.  Their monthly allowance is $850 USD for housing.  Hopefully we'll be able to find something suitable in District 3 for that amount.  We'd like to be close to her job.

-What is the cost of living in Vietnam?

It varies widely.  If you eat locally (pho, banh mi and spring rolls) it's ridiculously cheap, around $2 USD.  Shopping is about the same.  Electronics tend to be a little more expensive here than in Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur and the quality isn't so hot.  Especially imported items from China.  The Vietnamese try to avoid anything imported from China; especially food.  They don't trust that it's safe. 

Basically, if you eat like a local and live in a less expat neighborhood, it's extremely cheap to live here by western standards.  If you eat at the expat int'l restaurants and shop at the higher end grocery stores (Annam, Citimart, Veggies, etc.) then you'll spend a lot more; probably closer to what you would in North America.

-What do you think about the Vietnamese? 

I've found that, in a lot of 'developing countries', if you even go just a little out of your way to say hello to and smile at the people in your neighborhood, you'll kind of become the 'adopted foreigner'.  The people will really look out for you and help you with things and you probably won't be seen as 'that stuck up, rich foreigner who won't talk to anyone'.  The Vietnamese that I've come into contact with are very friendly and welcoming and like most people from developing countries, very proud of their culture and heritage.  Just showing some interest in celebrating their holidays and eating their food will go a long way.  They also don't fall all over themselves to try to sell you every piece of junk that happens to be in their store (I'm talking outside of the backpacker area).  There is bargaining, but they're fine to let you leave and hold strong to their final price even if it still might be too high.  In a way, it's kind of refreshing.  They're not usually overly in-your-face friendly, but they're very welcoming and nice if you approach them or reach out.

I've been asked by a lot of people in the states if I run into any problems in Vietnam because I'm American.  Although I understand the reason for this question (there was a war less than a generation ago after all), I find this to be extremely self centered.  I've run into French people in Vietnam and Dutch people in Indonesia.  I've never heard anyone ask them the same questions about their presence and their respective former colonies.  Their countries were in the region raping and pillaging and colonizing for a long enough time that the "American War" is a just a blip in the timeline.  Along the same lines, there's also the fact that China had controlled and dominated the country for about a 1000 years.  I wonder if anyone asks them if they run into any problems.  I've heard Vietnamese voice more concerns and negativity about the Chinese than any other nationality.

Having said all of this, there is one caveat.  It's probably not specific to Vietnam, but to most of Southeast Asia; the taxi drivers.  Even the locals will warn you about taxis.  They say that the drivers will try to take advantage of you because you're a foreigner.  They try to take very long, roundabout routes to get to places in order to run up the meter.  Plus, there are only two reliable taxi companies in the expat circles here (Mai Linh and Vinasum).  However (just to add some balance), I was in a taxi once and the driver felt so bad about how long it took to get somewhere that he tried to only charge me half of what the meter read.  I paid the full fare.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Vietnam?

Positive: Vietnam is very cool.  There is so much to see and do in the entire country; beaches, mountains, nature, cool cities with a lot of character.  The people are friendly and the cost of living is very inexpensive.  It's a developing country still.  Saigon and Hanoi still haven't hit that generic mega-city status like Bangkok, Manila or Jakarta yet.  They still feel like small cities in a lot of ways.  The cheap regional travel is a double plus.  Air Asia flies direct from HCMC to Bangkok, KL, Phuket and Jakarta for less than $50USD a ticket.  Amazing.

Negative:  The government doesn't seem to be interested in making things easier for expats or foreigners doing business here, but, then again, they are communist.  Doesn't paranoia and secrecy come naturally to them? 

The traffic blows.  The newly discovered disposable income of many middle class Vietnamese means that there are about 5 million motorcycles and scooters clogging the roads.  The traffic laws only seem to apply to the 4-wheeled vehicles.  Motorcycles will drive down the wrong way, just turn in the middle of the street, or drive down sidewalks (a.k.a. motorcycle parking).  They'll just cut in front of cars, making the cars stop and slowing down the rest of traffic.  Watching drivers at an intersection and you instantly realize that there is is no right-of-way.  If you see a spot that you can fit into, you jump in it.  I think that it goes along with the whole 'no standing in line' mentality.  I'm definitely not one of those westerners who thinks that the line/queue is sacrosanct, but there are times and situations when it makes life easier and at least gives the appearance of 'civilization'.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Vietnam?

I think the easiest way to live and work here would be to find a company or business that will sponsor your visa and work permit.  Or, if you're married, a company that will at least sponsor one of you.  Of course, there are a lot of people here who don't seem to have any trouble making a good living 'under the table'.  In a lot of ways, it's easier.  The government here loves to tax everything and anything.  I thought the U.S. was bad.  In most of the world, expat teachers are given at least two years of tax-free status.  Not here.  Even a settling-in allowance has to be justified and you have to get a special 'read receipt' in order to get re-imbursed.  Big pain in the butt.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Vietnam?

There are a lot of blogs for Vietnam listed on http://www.saigonnezumi.com/bloggers-in-vietnam

I started a blog for family and friends in the states so I wouldn't have to spend every weekend on the phone telling the same stories over and over again.  It's developed into more of a picture blog of our travels.  Which reminds me, I have to update it.

A Brit practicing his patience in Saigon, Vietnam

Emile

Living and working in Vietnam's Ho Chi Minh City, otherwise known as Saigon, didn't figure in British expat Emile's plans at all. But his work as a film editor brought him to Vietnam, and now he is making the best of his time there. It's turning out to be quite an experience, one that has its ups and downs, as Emile describes in his story.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

I was born in London, UK before moving to the countryside for much of my teenage years and then moving back to London for work.

-In which country and city are you living now?

Now I am living in Saigon, Vietnam.

-Are you living alone or with your family?

Alone.

-How long have you been living there?

For almost a year. Arrived February 2009.

-What is your age?

33, heading toward 34. 

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Vietnam?

I never planned to come and live in Saigon! Before this, I had been living in Singapore for over 2 years and when I applied for a new job there, I was told the position was actually in their Vietnam branch.

I remember vividly the decision-making I had to go through when I learnt about the possibility of relocating - at that time I was mostly happy in Singapore, although working as a freelancer meant I was discovering the market was getting tougher and my chances of work were possibly diminishing. 

With no ties, and a natural appetite for curiosity, I decided to go with it. I flew up to Saigon for a two week trial period and really enjoyed it, despite the pretty big culture shock going from 'Asia-lite' Singapore.  

-Was it hard to get a visa or a work permit?

Not at all, my company took care of that. How much of it was above board I have no idea. Things are obviously done very differently in Vietnam compared to Singapore. 

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

As of now, I have no medical insurance. Though I have been trying to look for a good insurer. My company pays for doctor visits. 

-How do you make your living in Vietnam? Do you have any type of income generated?

The job was the reason for coming here. I work as a film-editor for a post-production company in District 3. All of our work is post-production for TV commercials for the Vietnamese market, and a few for the SE Asian region. 

I think I am possibly the only Brit doing what I am doing in the country, but if anyone can prove me wrong I'd love to hear from them. Most of our team are from overseas, and we all bring a lot of experience into the local market in an attempt to help the Vietnamese raise their standards of production. 

Having said that, there are some Vietnamese creative staff here who are very strong and sometimes I am learning from them also.

But to be honest, it can be very stressful working with local clients from big brands and advertising agencies. The culture differences play a big part and sometimes I wonder how the Vietnamese feel when they see that most of the production team on their commercials are from overseas.

It will change with time (a lot of time) but for now, there just isn't a strong local talent base here to meet the demand. What might take a few days to complete in Singapore or the UK might be strung out over weeks here.

-Do you speak Vietnamese and do you think it's important to speak the local language? 

It took me six weeks to learn how to pronounce my address for when speaking to taxi drivers. And another few weeks to realise that the tone was not quite right when I was saying 'thank you'. In short, Vietnamese is a nightmare to learn.
 
I would love to be able to speak some basic Vietnamese but with the complicated tonal structures, the rather ugly sound of the language and the fact you can usually find an English speaker somewhere, I don't plan to learn the language.
I do, however, always greet locals in the street in Vietnamese and thank them in Vietnamese.
 
-Do you miss home and family sometimes? Describe your favorite recreational activities there or those that are available.

More than when I was in Singapore, I miss home and family, yes. I am aware of my nieces and nephews growing up, and I do miss a fresh autumnal day in the UK countryside.

The thing about Saigon, is that to most Westerners, it has a certain 'romance' attached to it having been featured so much in literature and film over the last few decades. And of course there is the association with the war.

But for me, Saigon is like living in a real-life museum piece - the place is steeped in history, retains strong traditional cultural practices and despite its desire to modernise, the city for the most part still has that untouched, 'retro' SE Asian urban chaotic charm. 

In terms of entertainment and recreational activities, maybe I have not seen it all yet, but there is not a lot on offer. You could easily spend a year trying a new coffeeshop every night, and there is the odd park or two, some nice places to shop but for the most part Saigon is noisy, polluted and densely populated.

And I have no idea where the reputation for a simmering nightlife comes from. There are a few clubs around yes, I have had a lot of fun with friends in a few of these, but you got to take it with a pinch of salt  - it can all get a bit cheesy with the usual contingent of slimy western tourists thinking they're a demi-god with the local women. In time, a quality scene will probably emerge, but it's still some way off. Sigh... I guess I do miss London at times! 

It's unfair and crazy to compare Saigon to London, but having been brought up in one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world, I do find life here kind of monocultural and sometimes quite isolating. But you can see it changing, even in the short time I have been here. This is still a Communist country which I keep forgetting.

-Do you have other plans for the future? 

I certainly don't plan to settle here, at least not in Saigon. I am enjoying the ride, trying to see the positives and getting to grips with the local culture. 

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it? 

I am renting an apartment in Phu Nuan district, and despite it being one of the most densely areas of Saigon, I have found a great area that is so peaceful and very local. Before this, I was living on a very noisy street in district 3 and I didn't realise how damaging it was on my state of well being by never hearing any silence at any point of my day. This is indeed subjective, but to me, especially here, I need to know I can fully switch off the chaos by going home to some peace and quiet.

-What is the cost of living in Vietnam?

As everyone knows, the cost of living is cheap on the most part but it was not as cheap as I expected. 

-What do you think about the Vietnamese? 

On the whole, I have discovered that the Vietnamese, or at least the Saigonese, are a little cautious of Caucasians outside of District 1. I can understand that, as their history with the 'white man' has not always been so positive - ie their colonial past.  But of course time has moved on, and I just sense that the locals are a little timid at first, especially if it means they think they may need to use their English with a foreigner.

I am generally a very friendly person, am calm, polite and don't make a fuss. So in turn I usually get a good reception. But the Vietnamese are very different to the Filipinos or Thais in that it takes more time to kind of win their trust. 

When the locals get on the road and drive their bikes, that's another story. I swear another 'alter personality' kicks in and they turn into crazed maniacs with no sense of mortality. But I respect that. It's just the way it is.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Vietnam?

Positives: low cost of living, ease of getting around town (on my bike), rediscovering the real Saigon in the city's backstreets, the weather, low crime, and cafe sua da (iced coffee). And just making a life in Saigon, period.

Negatives: very monocultural (after a while), insane traffic, pollution, potholes in the road everywhere, traffic police, need to travel quite far out of Saigon for beautiful countryside, language barrier despite best will in the world to learn it, material aspiration among the young and the ever present undesirable western expats, often with young Vietnamese girls, both parties looking somewhat lost with a sense of 'how did I get here in my life?'

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Vietnam?

You can 'see and do' Saigon in about three days as a tourist, but it has taken me months to kind of experience it like no other place I been to. I am currently going through a love-hate relationship with the place which is partly down to the fact I never planned to come here, and am continuing my career over the desire to be the 'far out' western tourist reporting on their wild time in Saigon. It can be wild yes, but I am not seeking it out!
 
-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Vietnam?

Yes, I have really enjoyed Jon Hoff's blog on Vietnam - another Brit here, but far more experienced than I, and now married with a lovely daughter. 

http://itsthefinalword.blogspot.com

English Teaching in Asia leads to lots of good stuff

Sam Brier
Sam Brier, director of AEA-Asia

Learning to give and take, that's one of the things American expat Sam has learned from living in Asian countries like Vietnam. The lifestyle sacrifices he has had to make have been more than compensated by the beneficial, interesting, and eye-opening daily occurrences he has experienced since moving to Vietnam. Read on for more of what expat life in ever-awake Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) is like for this American businessman.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

Houston, Texas, USA

-In which country and city are you living now?

Saigon, Vietnam

-Are you living alone or with your family?

With my wife

-How long have you been living in Vietnam?

8 months this time

-What is your age?

36

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Vietnam?

I've lived in many Asian countries since graduating university but had only visited Vietnam. When I got married (my wife was born in Saigon), a part of the deal (IE- it was something I wanted to do) was that we'd move to Saigon for a year or two, or several months a year for me to study Vietnamese, develop aspects the study abroad business here, and explore other opportunities together. Since she's bilingual and has family here, we figured this would be the best place for us to make things happen.

We had both been to Saigon a few times (separately and together), but we spent 2 months here on a test run to feel it out and see if we wanted to move back for a longer stay. That went well, so we rented out our house in the US and made the move.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a work permit?

Easy as pie for US citizens. The Vietnamese embassy in DC is prompt with email replies, which is important since the information on their website is pretty outdated.

If you're planning to move here for more than a month, and you're coming direct from the US, I'd recommend getting a visa on arrival through a Vietnamese travel agency. They can arrange a 3 or 6-month multiple entry business visa for about $80 and $120. They will email you a letter that you show at the airport on check-in and someone will meet you at the airport upon arrival; you pay in cash there. It's a great, hassle-free service. Each time you extend these visas, they get a little cheaper, and if you're in country, it's cheaper. They also have a one-year visa now for about $250 or so.

If you're coming from China or another country in Asia, it is usually cheaper to get your visa there, but it depends on the country.

These days there are lots of websites that are legit that get you a visa on arrival. That's the cheapest and best way to go in my opinion.

Since my wife was born here, she can get a 5-year visa, but we're still exploring that option.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

I don't have to tell Americans that medical insurance is expensive, and from experience they don't usually pay for services rendered overseas without a fight. There are other options worth exploring that cover you overseas, but not in the US. In Vietnam, we've been meaning to look into a Vietnamese company called Bao Minh. Bupa is supposed to be pretty good as well. And there are others, like TieCare and CareMed. Healthcare is so much cheaper, and often better in Thailand, than in the US, that we will probably end up getting a coverage that takes care of us in Asia and get rid of our costly US coverage the next time we come here for an extended stay.

-How do you make your living in Vietnam? Do you have any type of income generated?

I am the director of a study abroad business called Academic Experiences Abroad (AEA-Asia). www.aea-asia.com. We develop customized programs & logistics to Asia for university groups. I'm based part of the year in Asia (recently in Saigon) improving and expanding our services in Asia, and part of the year in the US when I need to be on the same time zone as my clients regularly.

My wife has had many job offers that she has found through friends and acquaintances she's made while here. It helps that she has many years of experience working in American companies and that she is bilingual. She has also had some luck with online job boards. She contacted one company that didn't have a job posting for her, per se, but she inquired, went in for three interviews, and they created a position for her.

-Do you speak Vietnamese and do you think it's important to speak the local language?

I've studied the language everywhere I've lived, and I highly recommend it. Vietnamese is by far the most difficult Asian language I've studied, but at least it has a Roman alphabet, which makes reading and writing easier than most other Asian languages. If you have a background in Cantonese, it should be easier than it would be for others.

I study about 4.5 hours a week with a private tutor who meets me at a quiet coffee shop near my house for 1.5 hours each lesson, three times a week. It's cheaper than taking a group class, and more rewarding.

My wife and I have finished a Vietnam phrasebook that will be coming out in 2011. The title is Instant Vietnamese, and Tuttle is the publisher.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?

Having lived abroad so much of my adult life, I am surprised that I am actually looking forward to returning to the US for the first time in my life. I think there are reasons though that had not applied to me in the past:

  1. having a nice, comfy home and garden to return to;
  2. the air and noise pollution in Saigon is pretty severe, so we're looking forward to our serenity spell in the US where we can exercise outdoors and relax with a book in the park; and 
  3. it will be good to see my clients and be on the same time zone as them- IE when it's 5pm, the office shuts rather than opens.

We have wonderful family and friends, and it's always good to see them when we are in the US, but that's not a reason to stay in one place. We stay in touch through chatting, FB, Skype, etc., just as we'll do with the new friends and family that we make during our stay in Vietnam this time around.

-Do you have other plans for the future?

We're always planning, even though plans always change. It goes without saying that we'll be back in Asia for extended stays for work and exploration. With so many friends living around the world now, we plan to visit a few that have moved to different countries in the US and Africa, among other places.

One of my goals is to offer great internships through AEA to students wishing to gain work experiences in Asia. We have a couple in Thailand and China, and hope to start offering a few in Vietnam and Cambodia.

On another note, we are avid members of www.couchsurfing.com and we plan to stay active members no matter where we travel to or live. It's the best way to meet people and change the world that I've come across. Plus, you can stay with people for free all over the world.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

All sorts of rental options are available in Saigon, from $150 shared to as much as you can afford for private.

-What is the cost of living in Vietnam?

As others have mentioned, Saigon has very good food for very cheap prices. Some of my favorite meals are less than $1 and are sold on the street around the corner from our house. My wife uses a cup of coffee as her Big Mac Index. The best coffee I've ever had is sold in a gorgeous café near our house for about $1. Of course, you can spend $3-4 at a fancy café in the center of the tourist district.

So, in Saigon, you can spend as little or as much as you want. Housing tends to be the most expensive part of anyone's lifestyle here, although if you eat at expensive restaurants and drink a lot of alcohol, your money can evaporate rather quickly.

Transportation is cheap. We have a motorbike that we fill up once a week for about $3. When we don't want to ride, we take a taxi for about $4 into town, each way. Short rides are about $1 in a taxi, and motorbike taxis are about half the price of a taxi most of the time, but that varies according to many factors, including your ability to bargain.

-What do you think about the Vietnamese?

As in most countries, most foreigners are treated quite well by the locals here, but if you're staying in the main tourist area, of course you have to expect strange encounters from time to time. In general, Vietnamese are warm and welcoming and genuinely interested in you.

More Vietnamese can speak English than in the past, which is helpful if your Vietnamese skills are lacking.

If you spend a lot of time in the markets, you'll hear some angry tirades from some of the women in there arguing; and if you speak Vietnamese well enough, you're bound to hear some pretty ugly comments from time to time, but I don't think that's unusual in any country.

What is unusual, coming from the US, is how safe Asia is, and Saigon is no exception - aside from the traffic.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Vietnam?

On the ups, we've got great food, a city that never sleeps, wonderful places to visit not far away (including most of Asia), and a very easy/comfortable lifestyle.

The downers are the noise and air pollution; the lack of areas to ride bikes or go on hikes near town; and the guilt that you might feel by living such a good life while so many others have it so rough.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Vietnam?

Bring earplugs, a soft pillow and lots of patience. We have to make sacrifices living in different parts of the world, and living here, you sacrifice the quiet, the clean air, the variety of talks, events and things to do for the excitement of living in a place that never sleeps, for the amazing choices of excellent food and drinks, for the affordable cost of living, for the friends you'll make from around the world, for the experiences you'll have each day that you'll never have at home, and for the sheer opportunity that presents itself on a daily basis.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Vietnam?

My company's website is www.aea-asia.com. On it we have blog with useful links for people who are traveling to, living in and learning about different parts of the world. Some of those links are below:

Blogs change all of the time, but I like http://saigon-today.blogspot.com/, a photo blog. The guy has been pretty consistent for a long time. If you want to see some photos I took while there for a few months, check out http://saigon24.blogspot.com/

Just in case you missed it above: www.couchsurfing.com. It's going to change the world and you can be a part of it.

Marcel Lennartz - 15 years in Vietnam

Marcel Lennartz
Marcel Lennartz

Dutch expat Marcel first visited Vietnam in 1992 and decided to make it his home a few years later. Now living with his wife in Ho Chi Minh City, he looks back on his early experiences and shares them with us, along with his observations regarding the ups and downs of living in Vietnamas well as tips for what to see and do in Saigon and other areas of Vietnam.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

In the Netherlands

-In which country and city are you living now?

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam

-Are you living alone or with your family?

With my Vietnamese wife and baby of 4 months

-How long have you been living in Vietnam?

15 years so not too short but still loving it Smile

-What is your age?

39

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Vietnam?

I had many Chinese and Vietnamese friends in Holland and was impressed by their hospitality. This made me decide in 1992 to travel to Vietnam to meet some families who have relatives in Holland.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

Not at all. My first company in Vietnam had health insurance arranged for me before I landed. I do, however, advise people to ask their company to give them an allowance for insurance and to take their own insurance. The reason being that if your company arranges the insurance, you get an accident and move later to another company, your premium will be increased. If you keep the insurance in your own name, you don't have to change your policy when moving to another company.

-How do you make your living in Vietnam? Do you have any type of income generated?

I've been employed full-time since the first day I settled here. In 1995 it was hard to find a job but once I got a job it wasn't easy to lose the job. I visited nearly 100 companies. I simply knocked on the doors of companies and if they didn't have a job, I asked them to provide details of other companies that might be interested. When I came to vietnam it was nearly impossible to find a decent job so I had to return to Holland because I didn't have a penny left in the pocket. Upon return in Holland I received an invitation from a company in Singapore to work in Vietnam. . Of course, that was 15 years ago and things have changed now. 15 years ago there weren't many expats in Vietnam. Now there are plenty. 

-Do you speak Vietnamese and do you think it's important to speak the local language?

I do understand a lot of what is being said but I speak unfortunately only a  little. In 2011 I want to start studying the language formally at a school. The ability to speak or understand Vietnamese is a great advantage when dealing with locals. Locals do really appreciate it.

Respect for local customs is in my opinion very important if you want to be a team player and get the people behind you.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?

Not at all. The only thing I miss is my 750CC Motorbike and driving on the German Autobahn.  In fact Saigon doesn't offer much for recreation. There are bars and some parks but it isn't really special. If you want to go out you should go rockclimbing, golfing, visit Phu Quoc, Hoi An, Mui Ne or some other places. Dam Sen is a nice park in Saigon but with far too many people. If you don't have a job, Saigon will soon be boring. But if you have a job, Saigon is fun.

- Do you do any sports?

Yes I do. I do a lot of cycling, running and swimming. When I first came to Vietnam I thought it was impossible to cycle on the street or that it was too hot to run.
Over the last few years I started training for the triathlon and during the training I met more and more people that wanted to pick up sports again. Driving in city is difficult but if you ride to Cu Chi or to the Cambodian border, you have a very nice long road without too many people. Another good road is on the way to Dong Nai or simply driving in district 7. There are a several large groups of Vietnamese cyclist that cycle every day.

-Do you have other plans for the future?

I like to stay in Vietnam although Japan or Shanghai might be of interest too...

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

I built my own house 2 years ago. Renting a house can be expensive.

-What do you think about the Vietnamese?

I have a lot of respect for the locals. They are cheerful, hardworking very social. They welcome foreigners and if you treat them with respect you get a lot in return. I wrote an article on that on my blog which you can find at www.vietnamextremes.com

 -What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Vietnam?

Positive: Great people, good food, nice weather and Vietnam is generally speaking a very safe place to be. If you integrate with the locals, you can have a really great time. 

Negative: In Saigon traffic jams are very frustrating, threre are too many road blocks and too much pollution. I would love to live in Hoi An where you don't have  traffic jams, polution or whatever.

 -Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Vietnam?

Arrange parties with a lot of locals or visit the Youth Cultural House. Don't forget the Vietnamese BBQ TTT on Ton That Hiep street. Try to pick up a sport  Chinese New Year (Tet) was always very boring to foreigner until last year. Last year I actually enjoyed it for the first. XMas, however, is absolutely great in Saigon.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Vietnam?

  • Vietnam Starkabel - A Vietnam link portal page that I maintain

     http://vietnam.startkabel.nl

  • Vietnam Extremes - My Blog

     http://www.vietnamextremes.com - My Blog

  • LinkedIn Vietnam Expats - Join the Vietnam expat community on LinkedIn

     http://www.linkedin.com/e/gis/1261757 - Vietnam expats

A Swede dodging Saigon traffic to find the best spots in the city

Anders Palm

Avoiding being hit by motorbikes while crossing the street is probably just one of Swedish expat Anders' daily adventures in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, where he manages a web agency and a website for expatriates who live in Vietnam. Read on for why living in Vietnam is a sunshine story for him, and learn about some of the ups and downs of his expat life in the city also known as Saigon.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

Gothenburg, Sweden

-In which country and city are you living now?

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam

-Are you living alone or with your family?

All alone on this adventure.

-How long have you been living in Vietnam?

Little bit more than a year.

-What is your age?

23

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Vietnam?

It was a pretty random decision, I applied for jobs in several different countries and in the end I could choose from China and Vietnam. I made an excellent choice!

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?

Not at all, the Visa was arranged for me when I arrived.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

No, it is part of my contract with my company.

-How do you make your living in Vietnam? Do you have any type of income generated?

I work with web marketing in Vietnam and trying to push the web here to catch up with the rest of the world. I am managing IO Media, a small fast moving web agency. I got the interview through connections and did not have to use an agency. I find it very easy to find a job in Saigon.

-Do you speak Vietnamese and do you think it's important to speak the local language?

I do think it is important to speak the local language, but sadly my first attempts to learn Vietnamese has crashed and burned. I am a bit embarrassed to say that I only know the small things as hi, left, right, too expensive, thank you and mango, etc. (I love mango.. I plan to take classes before the end of this year if my job slows down a bit.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?

I do miss friends and family sometimes but I can go home every year so I don't suffer. Activities I miss are being able to just walk everywhere in the fresh air and cooking. Yes, I could cook here, but so far it didn't make sense to me, the restaurants get me every time!

-Do you have other plans for the future?

I plan to travel quite a bit in the region and have been in Singapore and Cambodia just the last month. I hope to see Kuala Lumpur and Hong Kong soon enough. For business I will make IO Media grow first of all. I also started a site for expats at www.expat.vn, where a network of service providers helps expats out with anything from finding an apartment to learning Vietnamese.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

I am renting an apartment in district 1, I pay $540 and am happy with that as it is close to good restaurants, my office and downtown. It is also pretty big for me as it is approx 70 square metres.

-What is the cost of living in Vietnam?

If I really try, I can live on less than $1000 a month including rent. But, normally I spend almost the double with weekend getaways and some purchases included.

-What do you think about the Vietnamese?

I think Vietnamese people are great, generally they treat foreigners too nice but there is always a downside in the region when some people think that all foreigners are very rich.  So far it has been a sunshine story for me.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Vietnam?

Positive: people, the variety of food, the weather, the beaches, the contrasts, the culture, the pulse of Saigon.

Negative: things are slow & the traffic is the worst I have seen anywhere in the world.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Vietnam?

Arrive open minded and do make a better try at learning the language than me so far.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Vietnam?

www.expat.vn is a site where I am involved, we work as an online personal assistant and provide anything from house hunting, maids and finding a teaching job to travel arrangements, visas and tour guides

www.facebook.com is incredibly valuable to stay updated on what is going on and meeting a lot of people in Vietnam, both expats and locals.

The Wild Wild East: Stories of a Blogger and Brand Provocateur in Korea and Vietnam

David Everitt-Carlson

New Yorker David has spent more than ten years in Southeast Asia - the last three in Vietnam. Here, this American expat tells us a bit about his reasons for moving to Vietnam, his job there, and what he thinks about living in Ho Chi Minh City.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

New York City, USA

-In which country and city are you living now?

Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Who do you live with? 

I am single.

-How long have you been living in Vietnam?

Three years.

-What is your age?

52 

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Vienam?

I had lived in Korea for 10 years and needed a new challenge. Through research and speaking with people Vietnam looked like the next "Korea" in terms of energy and economy. 

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?

Simple as pie. They're practically giving them away. 

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

Not at all. 

-How do you make your living in Vietnam? Do you have any type of income generated?

I work in Marketing and education. My living is a mix of consulting jobs and university teaching gigs.

-Do you speak Vietnamese and do you think it's important to speak the local language?

Nobody cares if I speak Vietnamese. I am hired for international experience and because I speak English. 

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?

I miss some foods, sometimes but generally do not miss home. I lived there a long time. 

-Do you have other plans for the future?

I'm writing a book which I hope to publish in the US.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

I rent and prices can vary from a few hundred dollars for a small room to thousands for a proper house. I'm somewhere in the middle of that mix. 

-What is the cost of living in Vietnam?

Not as cheap as the recruiters will lead you to believe. If you want to replicate a western lifestyle in terms of food, entertainment and living style, expect to pay western prices for it. 

-What do you think about the Vietnamese?

On the surface everyone is nice but's that's only because they feel there's money in it. Once it's about making money you'd be better off bleeding rocks. The Vietnamese still suffer from a developing country mentality that works off NGOs and handouts, not unlike Mongolia. The gifted businesspeople who can forecast the value of western knowledge are few and far between. 

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Vietnam?

Positive: Booming economy.

Negative: Virtually "0" infrastructure, starting with deplorable road conditions. 

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Vietnam?

Negotiate like a banshee before you get here. Once you're on the ground you're at a massive disadvantage.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Vietnam?

My blog:

http://wildwildeastdailies.blogspot.com

for a good run on Vietnam and my 10 years in Korea. We're one of the top blogs in Vietnam and an active source of all sorts of lunacy on a thrice weekly basis. 

Hanoi in Unique Times

Elliott Price

More than three years ago, Elliott visited Hanoi in Vietnam and it took him less than a day to realize it was where he wanted to live. It's the place he and his wife now call home, where he and his business partner are busy growing the Hanoi community website they established. Elliott shares his thoughts on living and working in Vietnam, and gives some practical cost-of-living information regarding a city whose positives points outweigh the negatives, for him and other expats.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

I was born and grew up in rural Missouri in the United States.

-In which country and city are you living now?

I'm currently living in Hanoi, Vietnam, but also spending considerable time in Saigon.

-Are you living alone or with your family?

I live with my wife, Linh. We just recently bought a home and are excited to get moved into it.

-How long have you been living in Vietnam?

I've been in Vietnam for about three and a half years, with the vast majority of that time in Hanoi.

-What is your age?

I'll turn 33 later this month.

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Vietnam?

I'd been in East Asia for about four years when I decided to move to Vietnam. I'd lived in Seoul, South Korea for a couple years and was in Kaohsiung, Taiwan when it was time to move on. I'd never been to Vietnam, but from the people I knew who had been there, I had a feeling that it would be a good next stop. I spent about a month traveling up the coast from Saigon to Hanoi to see if I wanted to stay, and if I did, which city would it be. I was in Hanoi for less than an day when it became clear that I'd be staying there.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?

Getting a visa is really pretty easy. If you're willing to pay, you can get about anything. Work permits are a bit more difficult, but most respectable businesses will take care of it for you. If you have to do it yourself, the most important aspect seems to be to get all your needed paperwork (diplomas, a criminal background check, etc.) taken care of in your home country.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

Insurance is readily available. It's not difficult to get for anyone interested doing so, though I know many people who go without given the relatively low cost for health care. In trauma situations or emergencies requiring evacuation, however, costs are quite high. It's not a bad idea to get it.

-How do you make your living in Vietnam? Do you have any type of income generated?

There are a lot of opportunities in Hanoi these days. Like in each of the other countries I lived in, I landed and started teaching English. It's a reliable way to get started. There's such a teacher shortage in Hanoi these days that anyone with qualifications can walk into a couple schools and have a job in less than a week. After that, just look around and you'll find something else to get involved in, if you don't fancy yourself a teacher for life.

Once I got settled, I started working with some friends to put together a community website (www.newhanoian.com) to address the relative lack of online information for Hanoi. It went through many stages, but my business partner (Tom Lancaster) and I weren't under any real pressure to take short cuts to rapid commercialization. We let the site take shape as we got feedback from our community and moved on to each new step. We've always got new developments in store for it, but we've reached a point where we're happy with the direction it's heading and will be rolling out some of its commercial features. It's already taken up the vast majority of our time up to now, but it will now also provide our main source of income.

-Do you speak Vietnamese and do you think it's important to speak the local language?

My Vietnamese language skills are pretty rudimentary. My wife speaks English so well that I've allowed myself to rely on her a bit too much. I speak well enough to get around and take care of what needs done, but I'm by no means a "Vietnamese speaker." Hanoi makes it easy, however. You can get by fine without, but each level of ability you develop greatly accentuates your experience and ability to understand the subtleties of the Vietnamese experience.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?

Sure. I'm lucky in that I've had loads of friends come visit, and my parents have been out three times in the last couple years. There are still other people I'd like to have in my life, but that's the sacrifice of living abroad. I put up with it. I couldn't really bear to live in the U.S. these days given the political climate and general attitudes. Still, I do miss good live music, art house cinema (though the Hanoi Cinematheque goes a long way to compensating for that loss), and basketball. Watching hoops is probably my last unabashed tie to mainstream American culture, and only getting to see a game or two a week seems like a crime.

The New Hanoian keeps me pretty busy these days, but when I have a little extra time, I frequent several establishments dedicated to public intoxication. When it's time to get out of Hanoi, my wife, friends and I occasionally head just outside of town to do a little fishing. For longer trips, I can't wait to head for higher ground...Sapa or Tam Dao typically.

-Do you have other plans for the future?

Well, we just incorporated our company in Hong Kong under the name Xemzi Limited. With the new overarching company, we were able to expand to start doing a similar site for Saigon (www.so-saigon.com). The So Saigon site has been up for a couple months and going through the early stages of developing a community. We're excited to see it develop.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

As I mentioned, my wife and I just bought a house after years of renting. The housing market is crazy right now. Prices for renting have doubled (or more) since I arrived. We spent quite a bit of time looking for a house before we found something that seemed at all reasonable for the price. If my wife wasn't from Hanoi (and thus we'll be calling Hanoi a homebase for quite some time), I wouldn't even consider buying in this market. Before buying, we were staying in a 100-sq-meter, three-bedroom flat for about $300 a month. We locked in a two-year lease just before the explosion in prices. Most of the similar flats in the same building go for between $500 and $800 a month now. The best value is to get a big, four- or five-bedroom villa with a group of people. You can get a beautiful place for a reasonable price that way.

-What is the cost of living in Vietnam?

Even with the recent inflation, it's still very cheap for many things in Hanoi. You can go out for dinner and drinks in some really fine places without breaking the bank. Those who have been around for a while learn the ins and outs of local cuisine to a point that they can eat out 80% of the time without compromising a reasonable budget.

Getting around by motorbike makes transportation cheap, and even clothing can be tailored for prices that you'd buy off the rack elsewhere.

-What do you think about the Vietnamese?

Hanoians can be pretty complex people. On the street, they can seem rather cold or indifferent, but once you get over the initial hump and they begin to identify you with their typical day or social groups, they will go to the wall for you. There is a great deal of loyalty among those who consider themselves friends or family. The same courtesy doesn't necessarily apply to those outside those groups, so one can get the impression that Hanoians are distrustful or calculating. To some extent, those impressions are justified. However, they aren't the whole story. Given time, a vast array of interpersonal layers reveal themselves. I get the feeling that it will be a lifetime exploration.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Vietnam?

The downsides are the traffic (a constant form of stress), the always ongoing construction, the summer weather (hot and very humid), the lack of transparency in official affairs, and quality control issues in some of the service industries.

The upsides far outweigh those for me. I've been around many parts of Asia and lived in several countries, but I've never really found a place like Hanoi. On top of its multi-faceted historical influences (Chinese and French predominantly), it's also a city in a process of transition between two very different eras. It's a fascinating time to be here and watch the change. The opportunities are everywhere. Anyone with a bit of entrepreneurial impetus can find dozens of potential projects to choose from. If you have the patience, there are also plenty of chances to start up your own business.

Getting on a motorbike and cruising the city at 1am is a treat in itself. Cheap beer on any sidewalks, and beer halls scattered throughout the city with brewmasters who have been trained in the Czech Republic. Great food, both local and international. Lakes and tree lined streets. And, of course, the very first thing which got me hooked on the city. It has an irreplicable combination of activity and ease. Right next to a street filled with commerce and dodging, darting motorbikes, there will be people sitting in the shade drinking tea and smoking away the hours. It's a fabulous mix that allows you to find all sorts of back street goodness to keep away the monotony.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Vietnam?

Don't take the differences in street etiquette personally. The vast majority of affronts you think have been directed your way would completely baffle the suspected culprit were you to bring it to their attention. Expect to take your lumps when it comes to figuring out how and how much. Think of it all as just grist for the mill and never turn yourself off to the possibilities, no matter how uncomfortable that moving forward may be. You'll be rewarded with whole new spheres of meaning and livelihood.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Vietnam?

Obviously, I'm rather fond of both www.newhanoian.com and www.so-saigon.com. Independent of my own involvement though, I DO think that there is really very little to compare to the community that has sprung up around The New Hanoian. We've put a lot of work into it, but it's really the community of users and all of their fabulous contributions that make it all go. We just helped to get it started. They've taken it over.

There are always some great blogs that come and go, but the king of consistency is www.stickyrice.typepad.com. Sticky Rice is in a class of its own. Anyone who's been here for any amount of time know it and love it. They do great work.

www.hanoigrapevine.com is great for those who are interested in the always vibrant art community in Hanoi. It won't be long before the art dealers figure out what's happening and start raiding the city. If you want to get ahead of that game, that's a good place to start.

Caroline's Vietnam stories

Caroline
Caroline

American expat Caroline lives in Hanoi, Vietnam, where she doesn't only take in the sights and sounds, but immerses herself in the culture by learning the language and understanding the local mindset. Read on for some of her tips on getting a job, finding accommodation, and learning about the Vietnamese worldview.

Interview Questions:

Tu Long Bay 

-Where were you born?
Boston, USA

-In which country and city are you living now?
Hanoi, Vietnam

-Are you living alone or with your family?
Alone

-How long have you been living in Vietnam?
2 years

-What is your age?
28

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Vietnam?
While working as an engineer in Boston, I met a Vietnamese gentleman who took me under his wing. He had offered to put me up in Vietnam if I ever decided to visit, and I accepted in 2004. After touring a place so different from home, I went home to Boston certain that I was going to go back to Hanoi. It took me a year of planning, but in 2005 I ended up moving there, and it's been an amazingly fun challenge since then.

I've also always loved language study, and I thought Vietnamese would be the most phonetically challenging choice, and I was right.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?
I moved to Vietnam to study Vietnamese, and was granted a student visa from the Faculty of Vietnamese language and culture of the Vietnam National University of Social Science and Humanities. It was quite easy. All I really had to do was sign up for some classes and they processed my student visa, which I then picked up in Laos. They do, however, take a $300 deposit, and it’s not exactly clear on how the student can get that money back, because they don’t issue a contract or receipt. It is possible to get a work permit to teach English in Hanoi, and most of the foreign-owned language schools do the process for their teachers. You must have credentials though, including either an undergraduate degree and/or experience, as well as a CELTA. I hear it’s easier to get a visa/work permit in Saigon.
Temple of Literature

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?
I buy international medical insurance so that I’m covered if I go home to the US, but Vietnamese insurance is available at Bao Viet company. There are a few different coverage levels, up to emergency evacuation, at reasonable prices.

-How do you make your living in Vietnam? Do you have any type of income generated?
When I first moved here, I studied Vietnamese full time. I taught English on occasion, and when I had experience and a TEFL certificate I applied to work for ACET Hanoi, an Australian-owned academic English center, with a good reputation for its treatment of both teachers and students. It’s quite difficult to find NGO work unless you have years of NGO experience. Working with foreign companies is also tough, unless you are a civil or construction engineer or speak Korean or Japanese as well as English and Vietnamese. Even work as an engineer for a Vietnamese company doesn’t pay enough to cover a foreigner’s high living costs (rent is 28% higher for foreigners and utilities pricier). If you want to do something other than teaching, then I would suggest looking while in your home country, or be prepared to wait. The best way to find jobs is the same as anywhere, networking. Stop by the higher-class bars that cater to long-term foreigners. You can also check out Vietnamworks and the New Hanoian.

-Do you speak Vietnamese and do you think it's important to speak the local language?
Language is a window into culture. The way the Vietnamese express themselves in their native language offers a great deal of insight into the Vietnamese mindset. Also, so very few Vietnamese actually have access to English instruction (0.8% of Vietnamese study at university), so being able to talk to people from all walks of life, so to speak, has added a lot of depth to my experience here. I sometimes wonder how anyone could get along without knowing it. But people do. People generally speak enough English in Hanoi to sell you things at the market, but outside of the city it’s a different story. It you’re not shy about using a lot of body language to communicate, it’s no problem. You really should learn the numbers and a few basic greetings, though. I realize that I may be in the minority in my love for language learning. Vietnamese pronunciation is about as different from English as it can get, and proves downright frustrating to just about every Vietnamese language learner (people who speak Chinese tend to have an easier time). The Faculty of Vietnamese put all new students in what I call “pronunciation boot camp” in the first two weeks of class, but it takes about 3-6 months before most students can identify and correctly pronounce the tones. I’ve been here for almost 2 years and I still mess up my tones a lot. But, thank goodness, written Vietnamese is phonetic and uses Latin letters, and the grammar is simple compared to languages that have verb inflection. Learning Vietnamese is tough, it involves memorization and sounding like an idiot, but it’s definitely worth it!!

As far as respecting Vietnamese culture, there’s just so much to say, so you should see my weblog for more. People here have a different world view, a more Confucian outlook. That means that friends, family and education have a huge priority in people’s lives and people are amazingly loyal to each other, but Westerners often think the Vietnamese treat strangers disrespectfully. Keep in mind that their view may be different, perhaps even wrong from a Western perspective, but that their outlook is more based in Confucian ethics and spirituality while Western morals are based in Europe’s Judeo-Christian history. Both are equally valid, right?

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?
Of course I miss the comforts of home, understanding all of what people are saying around me, and buffalo chicken fingers dipped in bleu cheese dressing. But I take comfort in junk food, of which there’s plenty in Hanoi. There are quite a few great Indian restaurants around too. Check out sticky rice for the best ever Hanoi food scene website, and the New Hanoian for reviews and an interactive map of Hanoi. Recreation is a little more tough. The water park is overcrowded (like all the other parks), the gyms more expensive than those in the US, and there’s no trail running anywhere near the city. The motorbike riding is excellent, though, and there is an active Minsk motorbike club that has trips out of the city on a regular basis and a yearly Minsk Olympics. I prefer taking my little scooter over horrible roads in search of mountain scenery and ethnic minority villages, which are only a 6 hour ride north of Hanoi.
KFC in the background of Hanoi's streets

-Do you have other plans for the future?
Optical engineering is a little difficult in developing countries, so now I’m going more for writing. I’ve submitted a few articles to US magazines and papers, but it’s slow going. I’m teaching while I try to get a portfolio put together, which pays the bills just fine and gives me plenty of free time to bang at my keyboard.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?
Rent in Hanoi is cheap. I have 2 bedrooms, 1 bath, kitchen and washing machine in a house with a few other people and pay $150. You can get a room in an older house, or far from the city center for under $100/month, but if you want new and convenient it’ll cost $150 and up.

Apartments (studio) are self-contained and pricier, usually from $200 and up. Semi-apartments in a Vietnamese family’s house are cheaper. If you’re social, sharing a house is the best route, with one bedroom and communal kitchen and living room can go from $100-$300/bedroom, depending on facilities. Finally, there are neighborhoods set up for foreigners with gym, pool, etc. and a 4-bed house starts at $1000/month.

-What is the cost of living in Vietnam?
Hanoians can get along on $100/month or less, and a slim-living foreigner can make it on $400. This means renting a small room, eating Vietnamese food, and pretty much living like a student. $1000/month is more than enough, unless you insist on isolating yourself from the fact that you are living in Vietnam, live in a gated community and only eat imported European food.

-What do you think about the Vietnamese?
I mentioned that the Vietnamese worldview can seem odd from a Western perspective, with a few people seemingly unconcerned with scamming and stealing from strangers and foreigners alike. The Vietnamese are extremely wary consumers, and newcomers should learn this skill ASAP. The memory of poverty is still fresh even in developed areas and a lot of people are concentrating on making a fast buck. This often translates into a poor service industry. If you don’t want to be treated like a walking ATM machine, stay away from the backpacker areas and get a room near a university. The students tend to be open-minded, friendly, and eager to interact with foreigners.

In the rural places where there are no foreigners, it’s a different story. You’re just another face and you’ll run into fewer hassles. People are open and friendly and absolutely LOVE joking, especially about romantic affairs.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Vietnam?
Vietnam is incredibly different from the US. I learn something new every day, and have the opportunity to study an amazingly expressive language which up to 100 million people speak every day. Of course it has its hassles, but every place has the good and the bad.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Vietnam?
It takes a while to get to know Vietnam, and I doubt many foreigners ever do (myself included). If you want to get a feel for Hanoi, plan on staying here for a while, and try your best to learn some Vietnamese.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Vietnam?
My Website - awesome, of course!
Sticky Rice - a great Hanoi foodie site
New Hanoian - has everything you need to know about the Hanoi social scene
Vietnam Works - online job listing and resume posting service

Why American expat, teacher, and entrepreneur Kevin enjoys living in Vietnam

Kevin Miller Jr

The nice people, the low cost of living, the beautiful sights: these are only some of the things that American expat Kevin enjoys about living in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Here he discusses his business, the positive outlook for information technology in Vietnam, and gives sound advice on topics such as finding a job and accepting the local way of life.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?
Mountain View, California, USA

-In which country and city are you living now?
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam

-Are you living alone or with your family?
I live alone with my puppy (Lucky) and cat (Smokey).

View of Dinh Tien Hoang Street during a rain storm-How long have you been living in Vietnam?
Over three years

-What is your age?
I am 35 years old.

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Vietnam?
Back in December, 2003, I formed the Amerasian Foundation to help develop an "Amerasian Voice" for those of us who identify themselves as Amerasians. At that time, I was planning to obtain a PhD in Communication at the University of Washington but the Communications Department wanted me to spend a couple years with my organization before applying to their program. In April, 2004, two American Vietnam Vets convinced me to do some volunteer work with Vietnamese Amerasians in Vietnam. Less than a month later, I arrived in Saigon to volunteer with a nonprofit organization that serves Vietnamese Amerasians. In short, that's how I got to Vietnam.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?
Getting a 6 month B3 Multiple Entry Visa is quite easy. You can go to any travel agency around the Backpacker Area (Pham Ngu Lao) and they will process your 6 month business visa in one week for around $100-130. You have to negotiate the price with the travel agency beforehand but if they have known you for awhile, you will get a discount. B3 visas can be renewed at a much lower fee with the same travel agency.

My last visa renewal I went through my friend. Got it back in about 4 days for about $110. In the past, I have had my employers take care of the visa process for me, but sometimes it is easier just to do it yourself.

To this day, I have never had a work permit here in Vietnam. I have not known a single American who has successfully gone through the process. Most employers just ask you to sign their company contract and another labor contract for the Ministry of Labor and Invalids (blue form). You also have to submit copies of your certificates, degrees, and CV. Some universities will then submit all these documents to the local police and the process stops there. Tomorrow I need to submit new documents with one of the schools I currently teach at, again...

-How do you make your living in Vietnam? Do you have any type of income generated?
When I first came to Vietnam, I volunteered with a nonprofit organization. Within a month, I was also teaching English at SEAMEO RETRAC. A year later I was the IT Manager at the American Pacific University International School. I left APU to rest for a couple of months before taking university positions at both the Center for International Education (Vietnam National Univeristy - Hochiminh), and the Saigon Institute of Technology (SaigonTech). During this time, I was also hired as a consultant with Indochina Capital for about 14 months. Now I just spend my time working at SaigonTech. I am currently forming a Linux-based IT company here in Saigon with several other expats and Vietnamese Linux users.

Mui Ne Beach at the Seahorse ResortIf you want a job in Vietnam, you will need to start networking once you get into the country. Networking is probably the best way to get a good well-paying job here. All the jobs that I have ever had in Vietnam have been referred to me. A person just needs some time, patience and good networking skills.

And most importantly, do not forget to thank the person who helped you get a job. Just take them out for coffee or lunch and that should be enough. Many expats here tend to forget to do this.

-Do you speak Vietnamese and do you think it's important to speak the local language?
Vietnam is kind of a strange country in that everywhere you go, you will always find an English speaker. When I was a Peace Corps Volunteer in Kazakhstan back in 1997, I had no choice but to learn Kazakh or Russian. The same thing in the Kyrgyz Republic back in 1999, I had to learn Kyrgyz and Uzbek, as well as speak Russian, if I wanted to do my job effectively. When I lived in Istanbul, Turkey, back in the summer of 2002, I had to learn Turkish.

I can communicate in 7 different languages (English, Japanese, Kazakh, Kirghiz, Turkish, Uzbek, and Russian). Normally I pride myself on being able to speak the local language within a couple months of moving to a new country. The Vietnamese language, unfortunately for me, kicked my butt. The six tones killed me. After 3 years of living in Vietnam, I can speak enough to get around town, do a little shopping, etc.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?
Yeah, I do miss home, family and friends sometimes. Being away from home now is normal for me but it would be nice to play with my nephews and nieces while they are still young. That is probably the thing I miss most while being in Vietnam.

In Saigon, I tend to hang out a lot at coffee shops with my friends and students. My favorite coffee shop is at Highlands Coffee in the Saigon Center building. Highlands reminds me of Seattle's Best Coffee in the design and architecture including the logo.

You also get to eat out more often than you would back in the US. Sometimes I can eat 3 meals out a day without having to worry about cooking. Food here is good and inexpensive.

When I do not feel like leaving my house, I tend to stay in my room watching DVDs on my laptop or reading a nice book.

-Do you have other plans for the future?
Last April I formed the Saigon Linux Group with a couple of expat and Vietnamese Linux geeks. We plan to focus on doing some consulting with small to medium companies focusing on implementing Linux and Open Source Technology as an enterprise solution. Linux and Open Source Technology has a big future in Vietnam and we help promote it from the bottom-up.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?
I rent my house. I have to pay for electricity, garbage, water, telephone and the Internet. My five-story house has four bedrooms, one sitting-room, a living-room, kitchen, terrace, and an upper room with a jacuzzi and sauna. The house I live in averages for around $500-800 in this area. My rent is lower now due to all the construction but once the alleyway is widened and repaved, rent for the houses around me will all go up.

-What is the cost of living in Vietnam?
Since I eat out a lot, my budget tends to be a little higher than in the US. I remember it being cheaper for me to live in Seattle but here I get more back for my money. Instead of an apartment, I get a whole house. Most utilities bills are more expensive than in the US but that is because I tend to keep my air conditioner on all day. It is cheaper to raise pets here as well which is really nice since I got a fat cat who can't stop eating.

-What do you think about the Vietnamese?
The Vietnamese are very nice to foreigners. You hear a lot of complaints by expats about the Vietnamese but do not pay them any heed. These expats tend to think the Backpacker Area is Vietnam. IT IS NOT! Move outside of the city towards the airport where I live and begin to enjoy life. The Vietnamese are some of the nicest people in the world.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Vietnam?
My biggest complaint here is the traffic. Since there are more cars now, it takes longer to get anywhere in Saigon on the main roads even on motorbike. The increase of cars has also led to an increase of pollution so on most days, you have no choice but to wear a mask.

Despite the horrible traffic, being able to go out every night if I want is probably the most positive aspect here in Vietnam. There is an assortment of cuisines here besides Vietnamese. Clubs are plentiful and the coffee shops are amazing. My favorite spots are the beer houses for a light beer and sausages. You can't do this in America every night...

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Vietnam?
Patience, number 1. Also, come to accept that the 'Vietnamese-way' may actually be the right way. Stop rationalizing everything and please do not give the Vietnamese tips on how to run their business, raise their child, etc. That just annoys them and who made you an expert anyway? This is Vietnam so either live with it or get out! That's all :-)

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Vietnam?

  1. SaigonNezumi.com (My personal blog.)
  2. charvey (Chris Harvey's Blog - The guy who runs VietnamWorks.com now.)
  3. Antidote to Burnout (Mel's Blog - Excellent blog on the architecture of Vietnam)
  4. The Final Word in Saigon (Interesting blog by Jon Hoff, a Brit here - "God Save the Queen!"

Canadians Ed and Karen find living in Vietnam to be a captivating experience

Ed and Karen Merlin

-Where were you born?
Nova Scotia, Canada (Karen in Pugwash and Ed in Dartmouth)

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