Sri Lanka

A little about Sri Lanka

Malayna Dawn

Born in the USA, Malayna now lives in Sri Lanka, her father's homeland. Read this American expat and freelance writer's take on what life is like in the city of Colombo, and learn from her observations about things like finding a job, the cost of living, and the pros and cons of the laid-back Sri Lankan lifestyle.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

In a Los Angeles suburb, USA.

-In which country and city are you living now?

I'm in Colombo, Sri Lanka

-Are you living alone or with your family?

I live with my husband and our live-in staff of 2.

-How long have you been living in Sri Lanka?

Since 2000

-What is your age?

 I'm 39, now and forever.

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Sri Lanka?

My father is Sri Lankan, but he settled with my blue-eyed, blonde American Mom in L.A., so we'd visit his family every now and then. It wasn't until I graduated from college (University) that I thought I might like to live in Sri Lanka for 2 or 3 years to get in touch with my roots. 

-Was it hard to get a visa or a work permit?

No, a tourist visa is given for 30 days on arrival, and it can be extended for a fee. And there are jobs that will give you a work permit. I was referred to one through one of my cousins.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

Honestly, I didn't even try. But I haven't found it difficult to get here. Good medical care here is pretty affordable here too.

-How do you make your living in Sri Lanka? Do you have any type of income generated?

I work as a freelance writer now, mostly working for U.S.based companies. I have worked here and don’t think it’s difficult to find work. The difficulty is finding work that pays anything like what I'm used to making. To make comparable salaries, it's better to find a job with an international organization before coming here.

-Do you speak Sinhala and do you think it's important to speak the local language?

I have learned some Sinhala, though it is possible to get around fairly well without it. I think it is important to learn local language and customs, if for no other reason than to have a better idea about what is going on and how to get things done.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?

Of course! But I believe every situation has its positives and negatives. My quality of life in Sri Lanka is better in many ways than in the U.S., but there is definitely a price to pay for it.

-Do you have other plans for the future?

I plan to do more of the same – travel while enjoying having two bases of operations.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

I live in a home that was bought by my husband, who is a local, before I arrived. I’m not sure if foreigners are permitted to own property or land here, actually. If they are, it might be heavily taxed. But real estate is not one of the areas that is significantly less expensive.

-What is the cost of living in Sri Lanka?

Most things are much less expensive than in the U.S., but it also depends if you're making a local or a foreign salary. A few years ago, one of my neighbors, a local in a very modest home, told me she was making a salary of $30/month--and that's what she and her mother lived on.  She recently married a guy who makes $300/month, but I haven't noticed any major improvements in their lifestyle. Maybe they're saving up.

-What do you think about the locals?

I'm talking about the general populace here, not the people I spend my time with who are very worldly.  Because it was a British colony, there is a tendency to treat fair-skinned foreigners better than other locals. They understand that foreigners come here with money that goes much further here, and therefore prices are adjusted to make the most of this, but that's just good business, since in most cases we can afford it. They are friendly people, and generally laid-back, which may be the biggest challenge to Westerners. Their idea of meeting deadlines is very lax.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Sri Lanka?

The work ethic and communication can be a challenge, BUT the country is beautiful, weekend trips are affordable, Sri Lanka has among the highest number of holidays per year to enjoy them, the weather is warm (though the seasonal humidity can be draining) and the people are lovely.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Sri Lanka?

Be patient. But that's helpful anywhere, isn't it? And be prepared to throw your rulebook of political correctness out the window--treating people as equals who are not used to it may not get you very far, unfortunately, so you may have to be the Ugly American and shout and demand every now and then. Then go back to deep-breathing-patience. 

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Sri Lanka?

I include some of my adventures on my blog, which is http://malayna-dawn.typepad.com, where you can also find links to order my novel, Echoes Across Time (a fictionalized version of my story).

I send my friends to the Tangerine Tours site to think about where they'd like to go when they visit: http://www.tangerinetours.com

And Sri Lanka Tourism has a good site: http://www.srilankatourism.org

Environment Program Adviser: American Expat Jessica in Sri Lanka

Jessica Leas

Issues of community livelihood and environmental science are the areas that American expat Jessica focuses on professionally in Sri Lanka. She tells us what life is like for her in this colorful Asian nation and shares her thoughts on topics such as interaction with the locals and prices of products and services there.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?
I was born in Ocala, Florida, U.S.A.

-In which country and city are you living now?
I currently live in Boralesgamuwa, Sri Lanka, just outside of Colombo.

-Are you living alone or with your family?
I live in a house with other employees of the Sewalanka Foundation.

-How long have you been living in Sri Lanka?
I've been here since July 3, 2007.

-What is your age?
I am 32.

 

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Sri Lanka?
I was hired to do a job I thought sounded interesting. I recently completed a masters in environmental science and despite having several years of experience working abroad, I was having a difficult time finding a position that fit my interests. I wasn't looking for a particular location, but I did want to work abroad on environmental issues, preferably wildlife conservation. This position is not focused on wildlife, but rather on community livelihoods -- which indirectly addresses my concerns.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?
No, Sewalanka obtained the visa and work permit. It is getting difficult without local support -- I could not get a resident visa until I arrived in Sri Lanka. I came on a tourist visa.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?
I have emergency evacuation insurance from an American company. They will not cover me if I am injured by an act of war (which is a concern in Sri Lanka), but I am covered for acts of terrorism, which is as good as I could find.

-How do you make your living in Sri Lanka? Do you have any type of income generated?
I found this position via Idealist.org. It is an actual job with Sewalanka Foundation, but as this is a local NGO, I am paid a local salary. This is rather difficult in Sri Lanka as foreigners are charged more for things and thus staying within my budget is a huge challenge. I bicycle for transportation as the tuks and taxis are now out of my price range due to the recent bout of inflation.

-Do you speak Sinhala and do you think it's important to speak the local language?
I do not speak Sinhala and it seems that one can get along here without learning it. I would like to learn, but the only classes offered are by the British Council and they are overpriced for a local salary. I think it would be useful to learn because it does seem like the real conversations on what needs to occur and project development are held in Sinhala and translation is not always available.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?
I miss my family and friends in the U.S. a great deal. I have met several people here and hang out with them when possible, but as I make a great deal less money than everyone, it is sometimes difficult for me. I'm female, so it is slightly inappropriate to hang out with Sri Lankan men and Sri Lankan women tend to not leave home in the evenings, so friendships have been limited with local people, who are on the same salary as me.

Colombo has a great deal to do and see, especially if you have money. There are several movie theaters that do play films in English. There are theaters and museums. There are several nice coffee shops (for those of us with an addiction to coffee -- coffee is not common here).

I am currently taking a photography class, which is interesting and has a very nice mix of people.

-Do you have other plans for the future?
I'd like to continue to doing environmental work overseas. I don't mind living on a local salary, but eventually I will need to pay my student loans and therefore cannot do so forever. I could see transfering to a INGO after a year in order to better provide for my future. Hopefully my next position will be more closely aligned to wildlife conservation.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?
I live in a house provided by Sewalanka. I do not pay to reside here.

-What is the cost of living in Sri Lanka?
Although paid considerably less than I was paid in the States, many prices are similar. An enormous amount of my budget goes to just purchasing food. Transportation is very expensive, especially for foreigners as many tuk drivers think you are made of money. Always agree to a price before departure or you will be charged too much. Some activities are reasonably priced, such as the movies or the theater. Some tourist sights charge a foreigner rate, which is incredibly expensive if you are on a local salary. Technically I should be charged the local rate as I have a resident visa, but I have already found this to not always work.

-What do you think about the Sri Lankans?
Most Sri Lankans are very nice and helpful. I've taken several wrong turns on my bicycle and many people have helped me find my way. Sewalanka staff (though apparently not management) recognize that I get charged more for certain services and thus have helped me get things done, such as repairing my bike, to ensure I don't pay too much.

There is a problem with men here who seem to think that every foreign woman wants to sleep with them -- this is a particular problem in Colombo. You will be stared at non-stop and you will hear many rude comments. The best advice is to absolutely ignore all men on the street. This may seem rude at first, but a simple "hello" from you might provide them with encouragement. I was followed back to my hotel room one night for returning a hello in Matale. We called the hotel manager, but he did nothing to remove the two men from outside our door. Since this incident I have not spoken to another person on the street -- I have heard this same tale over and over again from other female expats.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Sri Lanka?
Certainly the unwanted and unwarrented attention from men is a serious negative. Eventually you learn to completely block it out, but it takes a few months.

The cost of living here is very high and thus, living on a local salary makes life difficult. If you are paid an expat salary, then you can live extremely well.

The food is generally pretty good. Not as varied or spicey as Indian, there are several dishes that I have learned to love.

The climate is very nice. Although warm, it isn't dreadful and even during the monsoon season it doesn't rain all day, so you can still enjoy outdoor activities.

Sri Lanka is a beautiful country. The biodiversity is incredible with many different ecosystems to enjoy. Tourism is very low right now because of the war, so you occasionally feel like you have the country to yourself. Even though I have several projects in the east, I haven't experienced any negative effects from the war.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Sri Lanka?
Make sure you are paid well. Understand that the culture doesn't really have a way to say "no" to something, so people tend to tell you they will do something with no intention of doing it.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Sri Lanka?
My blog is http://expatwithelephants.blogspot.com.

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