Emma is an Englishwoman who has been calling Italy her home for almost seven years now; she presently lives with her boyfriend in Milan. Expat life in Italy is by no means smooth sailing all the way for her, but she can't imagine herself living anywhere else. Here, Emma shares some of her thoughts about the people of Milan, the cost of living there, and her advice on moving to and living in Italy.

Emma

-Where were you born?

Plymouth, in the south-west of England, although I grew up in Colchester, Essex.

-In which country and city are you living now?

Milan, north-west Italy

-Are you living alone or with your family?

I live with my Sicilian-born boyfriend Luca, in a village half way between Milan and Pavia.

-How long have you been living in Italy?

I have been in the Milan area for just over three years. Prior to that I spent three years in the south of Sardinia (close to Cagliari), and a year studying at the University of Siena. So, all in all I have been in Italy for almost seven years.

-What is your age?

29

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Italy?

My parents took me on holiday to Sorrento when I was 16. I knew within about 5 minutes that I wanted to live and work in Italy! Following that holiday I started learning Italian, and researching like a lunatic (I remember getting into a row with my mum for spending the day reading "Live and work in Italy" rather than revising for my GCSEs...). From there I studied Italian at university, and moved here permanently one year after graduation.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a work permit?

When I originally came to Italy it was obligatory even for UK citizens to have a permesso di soggiorno, but that all changed when the Italian government got into trouble, so now Europeans don't need to do any paperwork other than the standard residency.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

No. In theory Italy has a state medical system, which means signing up with a doctor is easy-peasy (once you have residency). Although in theory it should all be free of charge, it is not. Blood tests, visits and medicines can be quite costly.

-How do you make your living in Italy? Do you have any type of income generated?

My first job in Italy was as a rep for a luxury Tour Operator in Sardinia - it was good fun and meant that I got plenty of beach time and met lots of celebs, but the pay was more or less zero. A good seasonal 'experience' for someone in their twenties, but not a permanent career.

I am now on the corporate ladder, working for a Milan-based eCommerce Consultancy organisation. I originally applied for the job through the company's London office, which meant that the first 6 months were full of lovely 'expat perks', but once I was taken on with a permanent contract by the Milan office, it went downhill from there! Actually the job, pay and conditions are not too bad compared to many others - wages are generally low in Italy, even in the most 'high flying' careers, as most young Italians live at home and so can afford to accept less money than is necessary to live on in a city where the average 1-bedroom apartment costs 1000 euros per month.....

-Do you speak Italian and do you think it's important to speak the local language? Please add your thoughts on local customs and whether it's important for expats to respect/observe local customs.

I speak fluent Italian, as I started learning in my teens. I know a few expats who get by with basic or non-existent language skills, but I wouldn't recommend living this way. Aside from being able to make friends and 'fit in', everyday life is challenging enough (bureaucracy, banking, the Post Office, paying bills etc., etc.) and without being fluent enough to understand (and be taken serious by others) I can imagine that it would be very difficult indeed!

Italians have very set ways of seeing life and the outside world. Unfortunately, it only takes one cultural mistake to be outcast forever (common mistakes being drinking cappuccino after 11am, sitting contentedly in a draft without a scarf on, or putting parmesan on pasta with fish). Jokes aside, Italians can be very warm and welcoming if you catch them in the right mood, but you will always be the foreigner, and it's best that you remember that!

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?

I tend not to miss home as keep in regular contact with friends and family. The only time of year I can't be anywhere other than England is Christmas. Other than that, I'm quite content.

-Do you have other plans for the future?

I would like to get out of the Milan area and rediscover some of the things that make Italy a bel paese. Luca and I would both like to be closer to the coast and have a more relaxed pace of life (wouldn't everybody). We are currently cooking up a few business ideas, but my lips are sealed for now!

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

We rent and always have. Prices in Milan are EXORBITANT. My first living experience in Milan was a single room in a shared apartment in one of the city's trendiest streets, in the fashionable Brera district. The apartment was literally a hole in the wall - awful - and I paid 600 euros per month for just a room, with a shared bathroom and shared kitchen! It had no washing machine, the bathroom was (literally) in the kitchen, and the plaster was coming off the walls from the rising damp!

Then I met Luca and we rented a 55 sq metre 1-bed apartment in the university area for 800 euros per month. Outside the city prices are more reasonable but you then have to fight with the nose-to-tail traffic or take your chances with the trains.....

-What is the cost of living in Italy?

Milan is generally more expensive than the rest of Italy if you don't count the classic tourist traps like Venice, Florence, Rome and coastal resorts. A cappuccino will set you back 1.20 euros, a decent bottle of local wine from the supermarket around 5, a meal for two in an average restaurant 60. Transport is inexpensive (1 euro for a bus ticket, 10 for a 50km train ride) but not very efficient or reliable. As I said, housing is very expensive...

-What do you think about the locals?

The Milanesi are well known for being 'cold' and 'aloof'. Actually I think the problem is more (and I say this without wanting to offend anyone) that they have a bit of a superiority complex with regard to the rest of Italy and beyond. They regard themselves as wealthier, more fashionable, and generally better cultured than other parts of the country, and whilst it may even be true, it doesn't make for an open-minded, open-armed reception when they meet someone new.

Foreigners are generally treated as a bit of a novelty - someone to learn English from, or total ignoranti who have no idea how to dress or eat properly. I am a bit of a wine buff and have lost count of the number of people who have actually said to my face "How can you know anything about decent wine? You're English!".

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Italy?

Positives are the weather (not in winter, but definitely in summer), the abundance of good quality food and drink (at mostly reasonable prices) and the proximity of great places like the Med, the Alps, historic cities, and other European destinations.

The list of negatives is sadly long. Taxes (38% income tax in my case), paperwork, bureaucracy, political corruption, rudeness, bad driving, impatience, intolerance, poor public transport, pollution, dirt (talking about Milan obviously) and the general national attitude of "why bother to complain / challenge / change the situation, when at the end of the day it'll only stay the same anyway"....

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Italy?

Don't come expecting the bella vita unless you have the disposable income, time and good fortune to find it. Italy can be a great place to live but you have to work at it and take the rough with the smooth. City life is as stressful here as in any country in the world. If you're planning on coming to live in Italy, really think about what you want to get out of the place, then choose your location based on that. Cities are tough, tourist areas expensive, the south chaotic and corrupt.

Having said that, I can't imagine living anywhere else - if you're willing to go with the flow, and can appreciate the weather, food, wine, history, art and travel opportunities, then you can't lose....

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Italy?

My own blog can be found at http://emmina-milano.blogspot.com

Other favourites are: http://michellanea.blogspot.com, http://figandlemon.blogspot.com and http://www.kataroma.blogspot.com

A great resource for information and discussion is http://www.expatsinitaly.com