Czech Republic

Czeching things out

António Pedro Nobre
Antonio Pedro Nobre

Portuguese expat António's move to the Czech Republic was largely unplanned, but he liked it enough when he first visited a few years ago to decide to live there permanently. Here he describes what he sees are the advantages of living in the city of Ostrava, where he works in the television industry, his perceptions of Czech attitudes and society, and his plans to travel the world by train.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

In sunny and charming Lisbon, Portugal

-In which country and city are you living now?

I have been living in Ostrava, the third biggest city of Czech Republic.

-Are you living alone or with your family?

Living alone at the moment.

-How long have you been living in the Czech Republic?

I started to move to Czech Republic in November 2004, and settled here in March 2005. First I lived in a small village in the outskirts of Brno, later moved to Olomouc and in the past 2 and a half years I have been living in Ostrava. 

-What is your age?

33

-When did you come up with the idea of living in the Czech Republic?

I always wanted to experience living aboard, although I was more into poshïer places like Amsterdam or London. But one day I happened to pass by Czech Republic and fell in love with the country. Mostly it was the challenge of adapting to a new country that I knew very little about, that virtually no-one seemed to understand even English and the possibility to re-invent myself that made me move here.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a work permit?

As a European Union citizen I don't need any visa or work permit here.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

There is an agreement between the European states for common medical assistance, so I just needed to fill in for the European Health Insurance Card. It wasn't difficult at all and I am entitled to have any emergency medical treatment for the same fee as any Czech citizen. For other routine assistance I go to my family doctor in Portugal when I am there.

-How do you make your living in the Czech Republic? Do you have any type of income generated?

I collaborate with a privately owned TV studio, specializing in animation and documentaries, as director and editor, although I still have some extra income from my native country as an author and scripwriter. It wasn't hard to get this job at all; I just searched on the net for studios in the Moravian region, found this one and wrote them an e-mail offering my services, even when they weren't looking for no-one. They invited me to drop by, we had a quick chat and the next day I was working with them.

-Do you speak Czech and do you think it's important to speak the local language? Please add your thoughts on local customs and whether it's important for expats to respect/observe local customs.

Well, in Czech Republic it is vital to learn the language. Even in cities like Prague or Brno, where people are more familiar with English, they are more open and friendly to me if I speak Czech with them (only cab drivers don't like it so much...).

Czech society is very tolerant and open, so it is not hard to integrate when you are willing to. There are some local customs, but they don't differ that much from other European nations, so it is not difficult to observe and respect them. Still there are a few extremes that I kind of have fun with, like for instance, Czechs are very big opportunists and quite often can be abuse your willingness to do something, but on the other hand, they are very helpful and can stop doing whatever they were doing to help you out in something. Also they tend to disrepect some basic common sense behaviours, like passing in front of you in a queue or ignoring that you are on a pedestrian crossing, but if you are showing intentions to cross on a busy highway, don't be surprised if they stop to let you go through..

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?

Family of course. Has for my native country, I only miss the weather and the ocean. The rest I don't miss at all. I feel better here than I did in Portugal.

-Do you have other plans for the future?

I want to travel the world by train. That is my main goal and I am actually working on it. So far I have been travelling through Europe a lot and even published a couple of books on that subject in Portugal. Now I am working on my first English-language book and I would also like to start doing documentaries about this subject, so I could finance my trips and also have my income from that. Still, it would take some time, but every day I take another step in that direction.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

I always rented flats, although I am playing with the idea of buying a house in the near future. Housing costs in Czech Republic are inexpensive when compared to other EU countries, although cities like Prague, Brno and even here Ostrava are starting to get simillar prices. Still, you can rent a 3-room flat in Ostrava for 10.000Kc (around 350€) a month, already with water, electricity and central heating inlcuded, specially out of the centre.

-What is the cost of living in the Czech Republic?

Although prices fired up in the last couple of years, it is still relativelly cheap to live in Ostrava and in the whole Czech Republic, as long as you avoid tourist traps in the centre of Prague and poshy places everywhere. I could say that with 20.000Kc a month (around 700€) you can afford to have a flat, pay your bills,  transportation, shop in supermarket without counting every penny, have pocket money for coffee and cigarettes, have your nights out and still treat yourself with something you want once in a while.

-What do you think about the Czechs? 

I can say in general that Czechs are quite friendly and know how to be polite. Above all they are extremely helpful when they know you but they expect you to be twice more helpful when they will need you, although they would not make many remarks if you don't, but don't count on them next time...

The Czech lands have been occupied or explored by foreign nations for many years, so foreigners tend to be treated with suspicion at first, but Czechs are very curious people and when you start to hang around a certain place or area for some time, they are dying to start a conversation with you, and know more about you.

Only in the centre of Prague this might be less common, since they are saturated from tourists and expats that refuse to learn Czech, but in other areas they are also open to foreigners.

There is (a lot) more prejudice against gypsies here than foreigners, although sometimes there are people that have still some hard feelings with Russians or Germans because of the recent past and more recently with Americans (never understood why) or British (because they have the fame of coming to Czech only to look for cheap prostitutes and beer).

The other nations are more tolerated and accepted, especially the huge Vietnamese community, whose cheap clothing shops and eating bistros are quite appreciated by this money saving friendly society.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in the Czech Republic?

All countries have their positive and negative things. Although I might complain about the way some things work, there are others that are very efficient, more than in other countries so it's hard to say.

One positive thing about Ostrava in particular is the fact that being somewhat isolated from the rest of the country, it developed its own culture and identity, and that made it possible for many local writers, actors, musicians or artists to get more support not only from the local authorities but also from the public. Considering that 30% of the national television programs are produced in this city, many of them ended up being famous nationwide and even in neighbouring countries like Slovakia or Poland. But since many artists choose to live in Prague, there is very little competition in this town, so it is very easy to get exposed here.

In my case for instance, due to the lack or TV/video professionals in this town I got great working opportunities, like for example, covering a major music festival that has been taking place here every summer for the past 3 years, and had the chance to meet and interview many famous musicians like the Servian-Bosnian composer Goran Bregovic, the 2-time Academy Award winner Gustavo Santaolalla, the famous bass-player Richard Bona, the musician/actor Eugene Hutz, the famous British singer Alyson Goldfrapp or the "Madchester" legend Happy Mondays, to name only a few. This is the most positive aspect I find of living in Ostrava.

As for the country as a whole, I think the easy going life, the ecological mentality, war awareness and low criminality are good aspects.

Negative... apart form the constant train delays and some over-bureaucracy, but that fortunatelly is being reduced day by day, only the weather in winter or summer can be sometimes annoying, but their spring and autumn are just perfect. There is also a lot of corruption here, but that never affected me.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in the Czech Republic?

Keep it simple and act normal, don't show off that you are a foreigner.  Let them realize it by themselves, you will get much more from that. And learn the language, it will make more than a difference.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about the Czech Republic?

www.expats.cz - not really my favorite but quite useful for expats in Prague. Expats in the rest of the Republic will have trouble to find info here, but you can always try the forum to meet other expats and have some advice.

Grant Podelco -- Expat Interview

Grant Podelco
Grant Podelco

It's been more than a decade since American expat Grant moved to Prague in the Czech Republic and as you might expect, he has more than a few interesting observations to share about living there as a foreigner. Read on to learn why he moved to Prague in the first place, his description of some of the local customs, and some of his favorite activities there. Expat life in the Czech Republic isn't a bed of roses for Grant, but there's more than enough to keep him there.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

Morgantown, West Virginia, USA

-In which country and city are you living now?

Prague, Czech Republic

 View of Prague and Vltava River (all photos by Grant Podelco)

 -Are you living alone or with your family?

I live in a village on the outskirts of Prague with my girlfriend, Daisy Sindelar, and her 8-year-old daughter Emma.

-How long have you been living in the Czech Republic?

I've lived in Prague since May 1, 1995, except for a year and a half from 2000-2001, when I returned to the United States to work as the Features Editor for The Register-Guard in Eugene, Oregon.

-What is your age?

47

-When did you come up with the idea of living in the Czech Republic?

I'd always wanted to live and work in Europe ever since I studied in London for a semester in 1983 in a program through the State University of New York at Oswego. Funnily enough, the focus of that semester in London was "International Broadcasting," and I now work for Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty. It was my first time traveling in Europe, and I fell in love with the culture and the lifestyle.

Novy Svet, an ancient lane in old Prague

After graduating college in December 1984, I obtained a British work permit through a program called BUNAC, which allowed me to work legally in the U.K. for six months. I went to London with my then girlfriend (and later, wife) and, amazingly, we found jobs -- she with Harrod's in their credit department, me as an editorial assistant and eventual newswriter in the newsroom of BBC Radio in Broadcasting House.

Unfortunately, after six months, we couldn't get our work permits extended and we reluctantly returned to the United States. I tried for many years after that to find jobs in the U.K. or Ireland, with no success, since the work permit situation is so unforgiving. You can't get a work permit without a job; no one will give you a job if you don't already have a work permit.

From 1986 to 1995, I worked in Syracuse, New York, in various editing jobs with the "Herald-Journal" newspaper.
Finally, in early 1995, I saw an ad in "The New York Times" advertising for correspondent and editing jobs with RFE/RL, which at that time was moving its headquarters from Munich to Prague. I applied, and was hired shortly after as a senior editor and correspondent. I arrived in Prague on May 1, 1995.

The 14th-century Charles Bridge in Central Prague

-Was it hard to get a visa or a work permit?

Fortunately, RFE/RL takes care of all of the paperwork associated with my Czech residence permit, so it's very easy. Other Americans working in Prague but without the support of a large company or corporation have a much more difficult time negotiating the Czech bureaucracy. The Czech language is very difficult to master; few people in the bureaucracy speak any English; and the Czechs are not known for being kind and understanding in such situations.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

I purchase my medical insurance through RFE/RL. If you work for a Czech firm, you're covered through the national health insurance, I believe. The medical care here is generally quite good.

-How do you make your living in the Czech Republic? Do you have any type of income generated?

See above.

-Do you speak Czech and do you think it's important to speak the local language? Please add your thoughts on local customs and whether it's important for expats to respect/observe local customs.

Even after all of these years, I only speak a little Czech -- enough to get by in taxis, grocery stores, etc. I recognize quite a few words in Czech, which also helps when shopping, etc. I don't really have a good excuse for not learning the language, other than it's quite difficult, and I have no facility for languages. It's also very easy to get by here with English, as English is spoken in most of the restaurants and shops in the city center (although almost not at all in the village where we live). Or a mix of English and broken Czech.

As for local customs, the one that immediately comes to mind is removing your shoes before entering someone's house (or your own house, for that matter), and that's a custom I can see following for the rest of my life, no matter where I'm living. Also, beer is basically considered a health drink here, and you can observe it being drunk by workers at all hours of the day, including for breakfast. That's another tradition that's not difficult to tolerate! Also, there's a funny but not unpleasant custom of saying goodbye to people when they leave, or you leave, an elevator (even if you've totally ignored them the rest of the time).

  Vltava River, Prague, near the Prague Zoo

-Do you miss home and family sometimes? Describe your favorite recreational activities there or those that are available.

Of course, I miss the United States sometimes, and my family. But our lifestyle here is quite comfortable, and there's nothing that we are really wanting for. We are able to fly back to the U.S. every year or every other year, and living abroad makes everything in the United States seem quite novel and surprising. The problem is that no matter how long I've lived here, I've never felt like this is truly "home." Part of that is the language problem, and my own fault. Part of it is the culture, which I have found is not the warmest or the most welcoming (although we know many, many wonderful and warm Czechs). Part of it is that it is hard, if not impossible, to feel at home in a country that is not your real home. But the positives of living and working here far outweigh the negatives, which is why I've stayed so long, and decided to return.

Okor Castle, outside Prague

As for recreation, I go mountain biking and play squash and golf. There's lots of hiking. And travel anywhere in Europe is very easy, as Prague is so centrally located. I also ride my motorcyle, a recent purchase.

-Do you have other plans for the future?

Just to soak up all that Prague has to offer, and to travel throughout Western and Eastern Europe as much as possible. We want to be a bit more adventurous in our travel this year, with trips perhaps to Georgia or Bulgaria, for example.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

I get a generous housing allowance from my company each month. We'd like to buy eventually, but we haven't made the plunge yet.

Karlstejn Castle outside Prague

-What is the cost of living in the Czech Republic?

It's getting very expensive to live in Prague, with prices for food, drink, petrol, etc., often rivaling those found in much larger cities elsewhere in Europe. But it's still fairly easy to find restaurants and shops out of the city center with much lower prices. A half-liter of the best beer in the world will still only run you around 30 Czech crowns (about $1.50 at the moment), though, so all is not lost.

Beer!

Here's a link to a helpful chart on Prague prices, although the exchange rate is around 20 Czech crowns to the U.S. dollar at the moment, quite a bit better than it was in August, when this was written: http://www.expats.cz/prague/article/prague-relocation/cost-of-living

-What do you think about the Czechs?

I think the Czechs are quite difficult to get to know, but once you become friends with them, they are quite warm.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in the Czech Republic?

Positives: Beautiful architecture, lovely women, gorgeous countryside, amazing beer, and history at every turn.

A field of rapeseed in the Czech countryside

Negatives: Service culture is still stuck in the Dark Ages in many respects, but moving forward, slowly. And perhaps the worst drivers in all of Europe -- aggressive, dangerous and disrespectful, especially of cyclists.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in that country?

Don't move here for the weather! The winters especially are gray, dingy, and cold. The sun rarely shines. Watch out for pickpockets and dishonest taxi drivers.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about the Czech Republic?

  • www.expats.cz (good bulletin-board site about events/problems/advice)
  • www.rferl.org (the website of Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty, where I work)

American Expat Wife Living in Czech Republic

Sher
Prague Castle

Life as an expat is an interesting experience for American woman Sher, who lives with her husband in the Czech capital city of Prague. They plan on staying there a while, so Sher is determined to learn the language, explore the country's attractions, and absorb the local culture.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA

-In which country and city are you living now?

Prague, Czech Republic

-Are you living alone or with your family?

I’m living here with my Czech husband.

-How long have you been living in the Czech Republic?

I moved here about 14 months ago.

-What is your age?

46

-When did you come up with the idea of living in the Czech Republic?

The idea first came to me just before my husband and I were married, here in Prague. I was not able to move here right after our wedding as I still had one daughter who was living at home, and attending her junior and senior years of high school. My husband’s mother is elderly and is completely dependent on him, so he was not able to move to the United States. Once my daughter was off to college, I packed up and moved over here to be with my husband and help him with his mother.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?

It wasn’t very hard for me to get a long-term residence visa since I am married to a Czech. We actually had to apply at his home town, at the foreign police office there. The whole thing took maybe 3 weeks, and my visa was ready! I’ve been told that in Prague, the wait is about 3-4 months.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

No, it wasn’t difficult. Again, since I married a Czech, we applied for regular health insurance that is available to everyone living here.

-How do you make in the Czech Republic? Do you have any type of income generated?

I currently work for my family’s telecommunications company, Pangrac & Associates, that is based in the United States. My job allows me to work via the Internet, and lets me travel with my work wherever I have an Internet connection.

-Do you speak Czech and do you think it's important to speak the local language?

I am learning the language, a little at a time. I have learned 2 other languages, in the past, but Czech is a bit harder for me! I plan on attending language courses in the coming Fall. Yes, I believe it’s important to learn the local language if you are living in that place long-term. I am married to a Czech, and some of our friends do speak English, but most do not; neither does my husband’s family. I would really like to talk to them!

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?

Yes, I do miss my family, and my dog, Pal (golden retriever-chow mix)! My family and I are very close, and even though we have lived apart in the US, we kept in touch every week. My parents, kids and Grandma and I all keep in touch via computer now. There are so many programs that allow you to talk for free—that really helps a lot!

-Do you have other plans for the future?

My husband and I plan on living here, in the Czech Republic, for a while. As to future travel, I will definitely be going home to visit family and friends as much as possible, and travel some with my husband on his business trips. This is Life as a middle ager for now!

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

We currently rent a small apartment, but are looking for a bigger one, or even a small house. A 2-bedroom house in our area runs about $140,000 USD, and rent for a 1-bedroom apartment, on average, is about $1,000 USD/month.

-What is the cost of living in the Czech Republic?

The average salary in Prague is about $1,000 USD/month. Prices for food and other things has been rising a little bit in recent months.

-What do you think about the Czech people?

Czech people are such a mix of pessimism, irony, and humor! If you read Svejk, that will give you a good example of how Czechs view themselves. Czechs are friendly once they accept you. I think they mostly treat foreigners very well.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in the Czech Republic?

Prague and the Czech Republic, as a whole, are so full of history and interesting places to see. There are so many places to hike in nature, etc., and so much culture here. As for negatives, I can’t think of any, except that my family is all so far away.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in the Czech Republic?

Be sure to learn the language, and go about getting your residence visa/work permit in the very right way, or you will have a lot of headaches! If you don’t have a Czech spouse/girlfriend/boyfriend, then be sure to try to have a Czech-speaking friend go with you to go through the visa/work permit process. The people at the foreign police don’t speak much English.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about the Czech Republic?

I write a blog, Czech Off the Beaten Path, that is about my adventures living here, in the Czech Republic, and tourist sites that I visit that are a bit off the beaten path. I also have a website, Czech Off the Beaten Path, that gives information such as Czech stats, and reviews and pictures of tourist sites I’ve visited, as well as tourism links, and will be going more into the history and news of the country in the future.

Some favorite English websites about the Czech Republic:

Expats.cz: gives great information and advice for people who would like to move here to live, but also for tourists.

Prague Monitor: This site offers Czech news in English

A Danish entrepreneur in Prague

Michael Carøe Andersen

Business was the primary reason for Danish expat Michael's decision to move to the Czech Republic. But it isn't all work and no play for him and his business partner. The exuberant night life, the interesting places to see, the friends among the Czechs he has made, and the good--and cheap!--beer are some of what make living in the Czech city of Prague a worthwhile experience for him.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?
I was born and raised in Toftlund, Denmark.

-In which country and city are you living now?
Prague, Czech Republic

-Are you living alone or with your family?
I share an apartment with my business partner

-How long have you been living in the Czech Republic?
4 months

-What is your age?
28

-When did you come up with the idea of living in the Czech Republic?
We started a small software company called Arb Design in Copenhagen in September 2006. Bootstrapping the business we ran the company from the living room of our apartment. After 8 months our subleased apartment in Copenhagen was up and we needed a new place. We realized that we didn't need to be in Denmark to work for Danish companies so we looked at a European map and decided on Prague. The factors for choosing Prague were the cheaper cost of living, European metropol with good flight connections and a good nightlife.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?
Being a European citizen, it's easy to move to another EU country and work.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?
No, again thanks to EU.

-How do you make your living in the Czech Republic? Do you have any type of income generated?
I work as a software designer and developer in my own company. We haven't had clients from the Czech Republic but we do from Denmark, UK, Germany and the US.

-Do you speak Czech and do you think it's important to speak the local the local language?
I don't speak Czech apart from the very basic greetings. It can be a challenge to get by with English/German and waving your hands but in general you get by. I've been thinking of taking a language course to get a better grasp but I'm only staying for another 8 months and so far it's been ok with just English.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?
I don't miss Denmark but I love going back. However, I miss living close to my sister and nephew. When I go back I usually travel the country to visit friends and family.

-Do you have other plans for the future?
The plan is to stay in Prague for 12 months and then move somewhere else. It is still not decided where to next time but I read expat blogs from some of the places I'd like to go :)

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?
We live in a rented apartment and pay about 20,000czk (€740) all included.

-What is the cost of living in the Czech Republic?
The average salery in Prague is around 25,000czk (€920). Apartments are expensive in Prague but food and beer are very cheap.

-What do you think about the Czechs?
Most locals are polite and if you meet them at a pub they often like to practice their English. There are a lot of expats in Prague and that's were I got most of my friends but the Czech friends I have are open minded, have good humour and like to tell about and show their country.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in the Czech Republic?
Prague is full of history and culture and I keep finding new, interesting places here. But by not speaking the local language you only get so deep into a place.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in the Czech Republic?
You should like beer if you want to move here. They've got wine and cocktails but it's the cheap, good beers that makes this a fantastic place to live.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about the Czech Republic?
I have my personal site Blogging Gelle and a collaborative blog at Børsen Mikro. I've met other Danes in Prague because of their blogs but they are all in Danish.

Good English languaged blogs about Prague are:

Anne's reflections on being an American expat living in Brno in the Czech Republic

Anne

March 22 2007

-Where were you born?
I was born in Washington, D.C., although I grew up in Maryland and California.

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