Cambodia

Andy from England Sharing His Thoughts About Living in Cambodia - Outside Phnom Penh!

Andy Hadcroft

While it may not be as popular as Phnom Penh, living in Siem Reap in Cambodia does have a lot of things going for it as English expat Andy has been experiencing. See what he has to say about the ups and downs of small-town life, the cost of living there, and plans for the future.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

England. Born in Luton, but grew up in Devon, and lived in Oxford for about 10 years before moving.

-In which country and city are you living now?

Siem Reap, Cambodia

-Are you living alone or with your family?

I live with my fiancee.

-How long have you been living in Cambodia?

Depends when you're counting from! I came as a tourist in late November, popped home to make some arrangements, and moved out here in early January. 9 months, say.

-What is your age?

38

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Cambodia?

I love Asia, but after initial misgivings in Vietnam, my fiancee fell in love with Cambodia from the first moment she saw it. It was good timing for us - my contract was up in the UK (hence the holiday), and she felt that she wasn't enjoying her job. When we met a friend of a friend for a drink here, a throwaway comment along the lines of "I've been advertising for an ex-pat, why don't you stay?" ended up with tests and interviews for both of us.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a work permit?

Are you kidding? As long as you've got the dollars... $25 on arrival, then work renewed as a 12 month business visa - one of the locals in the office took my passport down, and returned 3 or 4 days later with the new sticker.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

We've got local cover. I'm hoping it that it does actually do what it says on the tin in the event that anything does go wrong.

-How do you make your living in Cambodia? Do you have any type of income generated?

I came out here for a job - see above. We both work in the travel industry (he ended up getting two for the price of one, well, one and a bit), something that neither of us had anticipated. I'm doing web design more than anything, so the job itself is something I could have done from an office at home.

-Do you speak the local language and do you think it's important to speak the local language? Please add your thoughts on local customs and whether it's important for expats to respect/observe local customs.

I am rubbish. My fiancee is taking lessons, and I pick up bits, but Khmer isn't easy. This is a great town to be lazy - young Khmers learn English as it's a passport to a (comparatively) well paid job in the tourist industry.

It is very important to be knowledgeable about the local customs. I look at some of the backpackers now, and think "what MUST the locals think of us?". My fiancee was shopping for a dress, and the shopkeeper was trying to sell her a dress saying "good for you", and then basically stopped when we explained we lived locally. Of course, knowing about them doesn't equate to following them all - we have a reputation as crazy barangs to uphold...

 I wish ex-pat drivers wouldn't take on all the local driving customs as well.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?

Of course. Family and friends are the one thing I miss. Apart from real ale :)

Siem Reap is a small town. Part of the reason I decided to write this was because almost all of the ex-pat forums and advice centres on Phnom Penh. Siem Reap IS stuck out of the way, and IS a tourist town, but there is a great little ex-pat community here, a real mix of NGO workers (from the extremely well-funded projects to those scraping bucks together trying to make a difference), travel industry workers (from high-flying hoteliers to bar-owners), retirees, artists and musicians... there are very few boring ex-pats in Cambodia. Inevitably, much of the social life centres around eating and drinking - but my company will be opening a cinema club up in a couple of weeks...

-Do you have other plans for the future?

We'll stay here for another year or so, and see how business goes. If it goes well, then we may move to Vietnam (if the missus will allow), but more likely Malaysia or Singapore.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

We rent a 3 bed Khmer house, 3 air-con bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, just over $300 a month. There's a big spread of prices, some of which are harking back to pre-credit crunch days, so shop around. Call it about $400 a month once electricity, cable, water are included.

-What is the cost of living in Cambodia?

What are your tastes? You can eat out (well) for $5 for a local meal and beer, or spend $100 on a meal at an upscale restaurant with wine. We pay our housekeeper $120 a month, less than that again covers food for us and the dog. We go out a couple of times a week. To be honest, part of coming out here was about becoming less materialistic - we did buy a big flatscreen TV, but that's about it. It's not hard to save here.

-What do you think about the Cambodians? 

Generally, great people. Warm-hearted and generous. Humbling sometimes. There are bad apples like any population. I guess some of the rich Khmers are arrogant pains in the arse - at home they would be driving BMWs rather than Lexus. I think I like the average Khmer better than the average Englishman - but it can be frustrating at work!

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Cambodia?

Litter! Man it bugs me. Take a beautiful country, and chuck plastic bags everywhere. The biggest asset are the people who live here.

Positives - getting away from the Western rat race; good food; great standard of living (as long as you can roll with things, and have a bit of patience); being based in Asia, and able to travel around.

Negatives - being a long way from friends; inability to get anything done quickly (or so it always seem when it's urgent); living in a small town.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Cambodia?

Do not move out without visiting. It's a marmite country - love or hate, no just coping with it and getting used to it.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Cambodia?

www.siemreaplife.com - newish site aiming at becoming a resource for Siem Reap ex-pats

http://blog.andybrouwer.co.uk - The daddy of all Cambodia blogs.

http://angkor-wat-andy.webs.com and www.hadcroft.org.uk - my personal site and blog (under development, when I get time and motivation away from work)

www.aboutasiatravel.com - work, if I'm allowed to plug that!

The Phnom Pen: Australian Expat Justin in Cambodia

Justin Garnett

There are many things that Australian expat Justin loves about living in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, where he moved two years ago to be with his wife. Here he describes some of them, as well as his thoughts on the locals, his efforts to learn the language, and his plans for the future.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

Sydney, Australia

-In which country and city are you living now?

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

-Are you living alone or with your family?

I am married to a Khmer national and we have a 3 year old daughter ( Grace ) and one month old son ( Angus ) .

-How long have you been living in Cambodia?

4 ++ years

-What is your age?

43

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Cambodia?

I came up with the idea about 5 minutes after meeting my wife - having been in the country with my sister for all of 4 hours on my first visit! Once you come here you either love it and have to come over for an extended time, you like the week's holiday and that is that or you hate it and can't wait to leave. I was besotted with Cambodia from the moment we left the airport to drive into town.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?

$25 at the airport. Easy as pie.Then within one month you need to turn it into a 12 month visa which costs about $300.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

I have medical insurance now as part of my work contract but when I came here I had it with a private Australian provider. You are mad to come to a country like Cambodia without insurance.

-How do you make your living in Cambodia? Do you have any type of income generated?

I came twice in one year for a month at at time and on the second visit I had a job interview within the Private Sector and got the job! I sent an email to one company, we met for beers when I came over for the second visit and I had a contract 2 months later. I got retrenched 6 months after arriving and then landed a 3 month consultancy (Facilities Management) which turned into a 2.5 year job !! When that contract ended I had several job offers and I am now General Manager of a well established Facilities Management company that looks after Embassies and Corporates .Things have turned out great for me. I have also been Treasurer of The Australian Business Association of Cambodia for the last two years .

-Do you speak Khmer and do you think it's important to speak the local language?

Yes, I now speak Khmer - not fluent but certainly enough. I started learning the first time I came here and have always made an effort. Now I have a Khmer wife and many in-laws and when I first relocated here I had a teacher for 6 months /4 days a week and I was  learning to read and write as well. I still have a long way to go though but I do pretty well.

As an expat you can get away with non-adherance to alot of the Buddhist rituals but there are some things you should bear in mind. You must ALWAYS remove your shoes when you enter a house unless the owner says otherwise and you must NEVER point your feet at a monk when you sit down in a pagoda. 

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?

I miss my family incredibly as I have a lot of nieces and nephews and brothers and sisters. I have not ben home in 3 years and I miss our big coastal farm and its clean air and the surf beaches and I miss good steak and fresh oranges! Here for recreation I drink beer ,work out, go on jaunts with the family and ride dirtbikes. I also read stacks of books. play poker regularly and write a lot on my blog.

-Do you have other plans for the future?

Sure! Raise my family, keep learing Khmer, keep working hard and travelling SEA. I really don't think I could ever go home to Australia full time now - it would seem too boring- though I do want to show my wife Australia. The funny thing is, now I am over in South East Asia and have been here a while and established my network of business and social contacts there are some amazing opportunities coming my way which I never expected and in a way I really wish I had come here 10 years earlier ....

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

Right now I cannot see that it makes any sense to buy a house here. Prices are exhorbitant yet  we are in the 3rd world with terrible infrastructure. The market has had its run here and return on investment just does not justinfy it. We have a house in Australia that I bought years ago. In cambodia we pay US$800pcm for an older style 3 bedroom, 3 bathroom villa with a big garden and plenty of space for our daughter to run around in. That includes all water, power ( running several AC every day ), rubbish, etc. We have decked it out with big silk lights and huge sofas and custom made teak beds with nets, a big plasma screen, stereo and a custom kitchen with granite benches. We have lots of huge palms and bamboos outside and a big bbq which is always burning with ribs on it. We have really made our home our castle as it is a nice place and Phnom Penh (especially in the hot season) can be lacking in nice spaces. I am a member at the Intercontinental which as a really nice a pool so we swim over there which is a real luxury. We have also bought blocks of land on the coast at Kep which is a lovely area and will maybe build a nice house down there to go relax in. My wife is from nearby Kampot which is a very nice riverside town.

-What is the cost of living in Cambodia?

Not as cheap as it was 2 years ago but still ok. Beers are US$12 a box. Cigarettes are 25c a pack ( I don't smoke but I should at that price !). It can be as expensive or as cheap as you want to make it. You can go out on Sat night and spend $20 or $100..up to you! You can rent a boat with a bunch of frineds and cruise the Mekong for $10 an hour which is always nice.I can eat a bowl of lovely Viet pho soup and drink and iced coffee for $2 !

-What do you think about the Khmer?

The Khmer are wonderful people. If you take the time to learn some Khmer language, the place opens up to you and you are welcomed with open arms. The one thing that used to really irk me though is the way they laugh at you when you are in distress! It's a cultural thing and they don't mean it to be a "ha ha SUCK ****" type of laugh. Your car might be broken down in deep water or your bike might be stuck in mud and whilst you sweat it out and swear your head off, they just laugh away. My Khmer family provide the most amazing support for our baby it's just overwhelming. They do everything and anything to ensure she is cared for like a queen.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Cambodia?

- ; corruption at all levels, heat, litter, heat, sometimes small things take forever, power black outs, flooding in the streets during rainy season, lack of some foods I like, the poverty can be upsetting. Did I mention the heat ? It is damn hot herein April.

+ ; My wife , my daughter and our new baby boy !! My khmer family, my friends here,my work is great ,the people, the expat scene is unreal, the bars are great, the parties, the motorcross riding, the sights, the smells, the Mekong River, the personal learning curve it puts you on, trips to the provinces, etc. etc. LIVING!

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Cambodia?

PATIENCE PATIENCE PATIENCE

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Cambodia?

www.thephnompen.asia

A Girl in Asia: Australian Expat Liz's Life in Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Liz Ledden
Liz Ledden

Living in Phnom Pehn, Cambodia, has its ups and downs according to Australian expat Liz, but on the whole the ups happen more than the downs. This writer and mom-to-be shares some parts of her expat life in Phnom Penh and gives advice on what one may expect to find and experience in Phnom Penh.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

I was born in Dubbo, Central NSW, Australia then lived in Sydney for 11 years before moving to Phnom Penh.

-In which country and city are you living now?

Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

-Are you living alone or with your family?

I live with my husband, Steve.

-How long have you been living in Cambodia?

Just over 2 years now - since May 2006.

-What is your age?

30

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Cambodia?

In 2003 we travelled around Asia for 8 months and upon returning to Australia were slightly obsessed with all things Asian and dreamed of one day living there. An opportunity to do so presented itself when my husband (who works in the travel industry) got a job in Cambodia (and I was able to tag along). While we were initially unsure of how we'd like living in Cambodia it has turned out to be better than expected.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?

Not at all - Cambodia has to be one of the easiest countries in the world for anyone to get a visa. You purchase a one month business visa on arrival for US$25 then once it expires renew it for a year for around US$260. You can then keep renewing it indefinitely.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

It's not difficult to get (ours is through Allianz) but it's well worth getting as the cost of medical care (at clinics of an international standard) is really high - higher than Australia. And living in a tropical climate in a developing country means you end up going to the doctor for more issues than you'd encounter at home.

-How do you make your living in Cambodia?

Right now I'm not working as I'm about to have a baby (in two weeks time), but since living in Cambodia I've spent 12 months working as Deputy Editor of lifestyle magazine AsiaLIFE Phnom Penh, updated the Phnom Penh section of the last LUXE city guide for Cambodia & Laos, and have worked on some freelance writing projects for companies in Phnom Penh and Sydney. I'm in a fortunate situation in that my husband has a 'real job' so I've been able to pursue work that I'm passionate about (writing) that I otherwise wouldn't be able to afford to live off in Cambodia if I was here alone! The work I've done to date has been found through contacts and word of mouth rather than through any formal kind of application process or recruitment agency.

-Do you speak Khmer and do you think it's important to speak the local language?

I speak very basic Khmer (the Cambodian language) after doing some lessons upon arriving. Not enough to hold a proper conversation but enough to use when giving directions to tuk tuk drivers or bargaining in the markets. I do think it's important for expats to respect local customs, after all we're the outsiders!

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?

I do miss friends and family from home but fortunately many have come and visited or dropped by on their Asian travels (and hopefully will continue to do so!).

-Do you have other plans for the future?

Future plans include grappling with a whole new set of challenges that living with a baby in Cambodia may present. Beyond that, we definitely want to do some more travel around Asia - something you have to take advantage of being so close to so many fantastic places. Oh and I guess I should start working again...!

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

We rent a 2-bedroom apartment in a central location in a street just off Phnom Penh's riverfront. Some expats rent studios for US$250 a month, others rent huge villas for $2000 a month and up. Our place is closer in price to the lower end of the scale!

-What is the cost of living in Cambodia?

It really depends on your lifestyle and how much you eat and drink out (and the types of places you frequent), and obviously on how much you spend on your rent. You could live in a reasonable place, eat out and live a comfortable life for approximately US$1500 a month, though others would live on much less and others again would spend much, much more.

-What do you think about the Cambodians?

Generally Cambodian people are among the friendliest people around and most have a great sense of humour, they're constantly laughing and joking around. No-one's ever in a rush though and they also don't like to walk anywhere and seem to think foreigners who enjoy walking around are strange! (Why walk when you catch a moto or a tuk tuk or drive your car?!).

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Cambodia?

Positives include the laidback, friendly nature of Cambodian people, the warm tropical climate (though it can get too warm, particularly in April), the slower pace of life and ease of meeting new people, that most places you go to in Phnom Penh are only 5-15 minutes away (no long commute!), the fun social scene - bars, cafes, art gallery openings etc., the proximity to other places for holidays (Bangkok's an hour's flight away, Saigon is too or you can even take a 6 hour bus ride), the charming southern Cambodian towns of Kep and Kampot for relaxing weekends, the availability of nearly every cuisine around in Phnom Penh's buzzing restaurant scene, affordable and quality shopping, spa treatments etc. (I could go on!).

Negatives include dealing with a corrupt and ineffective legal system if something goes wrong, traffic police looking for bribes, the mounting rubbish on the streets, fending off beggars/shoe shine kids/book vendors etc. (though that really only applies to the touristy riverfront), petty crime (e.g. bag snatching), health issues, e.g., the prevalence of dengue fever and the lack of quality medical facilities in Cambodia if there's an emergency, and spiralling inflation (though that's impacting most places right now). That all sounds really negative but day to day, the positives of living in Cambodia far outweigh the negative!!

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Cambodia?

My main tip would be to relax and not to expect everything to run as efficiently or smoothly as it might at home. People who get easily upset at little things like mix-ups when ordering food in restaurants, communication breakdowns and things taking a long time will find it harder to accept life in Cambodia than those who can overcome the small hiccups that inevitably happen.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Cambodia?

I recently started a blog, www.agirlinasia.blogspot.com, which focuses on fun, lifestyle topics (rather than Cambodia's more pressing issues). It also covers food, shopping, etc., from travels in the region (well, just Bangkok so far).

Singaporean expat Diana runs a social enterprise while living in Cambodia

Diana Saw

-Where were you born?
Singapore

-In which country and city are you living now?
Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Jinja is an American leading a laid-back lifestyle in Phnom Penh Cambodia.

John “Jinja” Weeks
th_johninjaweeks.jpg

Profile picture by: Linda Saphan

July 12 2006

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