Argentina

Family Sells Everything and Runs Away to Buenos Aires

Michele Reeves

What's it like for an American family of four to live in Buenos Aires, Argentina? Expats Michele and Tom have been living there with their two young daughters, and here they describe why they moved to Argentina, the adjustments their family has had to make to conform to local practices, and what they love the most (and the least) about living in Buenos Aires.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

I was born in Fort Rucker, Alabama, where my parents were stationed after my father was drafted to serve during the Vietnam War.

-In which country and city are you living now?

We are currently living in Buenos Aires, Argentina

-Are you living alone or with your family?

We are a family of 4: husband, wife and two daughters in grade school.

-How long have you been living in Argentina?

7 months

-What is your age?

42

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Argentina?

In my 20s, I spent 4 years living overseas in Asia and Europe and the experience was life changing -- in a good way.  After getting married and having kids, Tom and I always knew that we wanted to live overseas with the girls at some point.  The tricky part is the timing.  They need to be old enough to appreciate it and remember it, but young enough that they don't hate you forever for taking them away from their friends.  The final clincher for us was the worsening economy.  We sold our house in the summer of 2007 because we saw the writing on the wall, which then became a catalyst for selling everything else and moving to Argentina.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a work permit?

It's not too hard to get a rentista visa if you have some money, but we decided to just do the 90 day renewable tourist visa and leave/enter the country as needed.  Because we were new to the region, we wanted to do a lot of traveling anyway.  If we were going to stay here for 4 or 5 years, I would probably go the proper visa route.  Rumor also has it the immigration is going to start getting stricter with expats living on their 90 day renewable in Argentina, so it's something to be aware of.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

Medical insurance is very easily obtainable in Argentina and it is very affordable.

-How do you make your living in Argentina? Do you have any type of income generated?

We are currently not working, but are presently in the process of developing several business ideas to generate $US or Euros with location-independent businesses.  We are also working on longer term business ideas for wherever we settle next.

-Do you speak Spanish and do you think it's important to speak the local language?

I speak Spanish, but my husband and daughters did not before coming here.  My kids agree that speaking some of the language before arriving would have made things easier for them, especially the older they are.  If your kids are older than about 3rd or 4th grade, it's pretty impossible for them to start in local schools because the curriculum is advanced enough that they can't get away with a low level of Spanish proficiency.  My husband also finds it difficult not speaking the language, but in general, Porteños are super friendly and helpful to those who speak less-than-perfect Castellano. If you want to start a business here, work here, or are going to be enrolling your kids in school here, it would be very very difficult without some functional Spanish.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes? Describe your favorite recreational activities there or those that are available.

Since I'm old enough to remember life before the Internet, I find it much less isolating to be overseas now than in the early 90s.  With video skype and Fed Ex, it's like we live the next State over, not halfway across the world. 

Buenos Aires is amazing, we are currently taking family horseback riding lessons in the center of the city, and the girls are also working with a tennis coach a couple of times a week at a local club where the #15 player in the world practices as well.  The girls regularly attend birthday parties and sleep overs, and there is always a restaurant, musical event, gallery, or show to attend if you have the time.  

-Do you have other plans for the future?

We know we will be in Baires until December 2009, then we shall see.  We may do more traveling regionally, we may head to Asia, we may return to the US and start a business...it's all possible!

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

We decided to do the furnished short-term rental, of which there are many options in Buenos Aires.  That way, we spent no time searching for furniture, all of the bills are paid, and we have been able to live in different neighborhoods.  The other benefit of short-term rentals is that you can come and go.  We put our limited belongings in storage during the summer break this year and applied what we would have paid for housing toward two months of traveling in Uruguay, Chile, and Argentina! 

Generally, for a 2 bedroom apartment you are going to pay from $1500 to $2500 and for a 3 bedroom apartment you will pay from $2000 to $4000 per month.  Included is maid service once or twice a week, all bills paid, cable, Internet, furniture, dishes, all linens and towels are changed once a week... . These prices are for a home with a standard of living similar to the US.

-What is the cost of living in Argentina?

Housing is cheaper than New York or San Francisco, but more expensive than smaller cities in the US (like Portland, where we come from).  Food is cheaper, by 1/2 to 1/3 -- that means restaurants and produce.  Entertainment, events, and classes are less than the US by about  1/2 to 1/3 as well.  Electronics are nearly double what you would pay in the US.

-What do you think about the locals?

 Very friendly and helpful for such a big city.  Very patient with non-native speakers of Spanish.  Warm.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Argentina?

We pretty much love everything about living here except for two things:

The first is the food.  Argentinians are not adventurous food souls -- they like meat and potatoes with no spices, not even pepper!  Very bland food.  Vegetables and fruits are a complete afterhought here and the selection of produce is pretty substandard.  I was not expecting that. On the other hand, they do meat, wine, gelato, and potatoes very well!

The other issue is the schedule.  You read before you come here that everything is late -- meals, entertainment, etc.  But when you have American kids who need more than 7 hours of sleep, you find you are always fighting the Argentinian propensity to do everything very late in the evening.  We have to cook a lot because we can't eat out at good restaurants until 8 or 9 pm.  Kid birthday parties last until 8 or 8:30 during the week.  School gets out at 4:30 pm or 5:00 pm here, so if you want to do sporting activities, they run quite late as well.  We are always struggling to get enough sleep for the girls.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Argentina?

Bring some good pans and knives.  Bring your own tampons for the ladies.  Bring a lot of cash.  If you have comfort junk food, bring some with you. 

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Argentina?

 

www.micheleandtom.com

www.baexpats.org

A Tango with Taxi Drivers in Argentina

Layne Mosler

A country that arouses her passions - that's how American expat Layne describes Argentina, where she's been living for more than three years already. Here she talks about her work as a freelance writer, the unusual method she uses to taste various cuisines in Buenos Aires, and her suggestions about how to approach Argentine life and culture.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

Bellflower, California, USA

-In which country and city are you living now?

Buenos Aires, Argentina

-Are you living alone or with your family?

Alone

-How long have you been living in Argentina?

3 1/2 years

-What is your age?

34

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Argentina?

I'd been planning on living abroad since 2003. The fact that I spoke Spanish combined with the vibrancy of the arts/culture/literature scene in Buenos Aires made it an attractive choice.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?

I still don't have one!

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

I don't have medical insurance. I go to the German Hospital and pay for appointments as I go. It's affordable and the quality of care is excellent. There are affordable options (about $100-150US per month) for health insurance via an organization called Expat Connection.

-How do you make your living in Argentina? Do you have any type of income generated?

I work as a freelance food and copywriter. I lined up the copywriting gig in the US and have been building up my food writing over time in Buenos Aires. In both cases, networking opened the doors.

-Do you speak Spanish and do you think it's important to speak the local language?

I speak fluent Spanish and think it's essential to understanding and appreciating Buenos Aires. You can survive without it, but you miss an awful lot.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?

I miss my family, my friends, and my Mexican food. I dance tango, do restaurant reconnaissance, and try to take advantage of all the arts/culture festivals that the city of Buenos Aires sponsors. From jazz to tango to literature to food to nights at the museum, there's always something new happening.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

I'm renting a semi-furnished apartment in an upper-middle class neighborhood called Belgrano for $650/month.

-What is the cost of living in Argentina?

This varies depending on how you want to live. If you want to go out to dinner, to clubs and take taxis everywhere, you could easily spend $2000US per month. You could probably live on half that amount if you looked hard for a cheap place to live and took public transportation. Keep in mind that inflation is changing (i.e. increasing) the cost of living every day.

-What do you think about the Argentines?

Argentines are famous for their warmth, curiosity and intelligence. They seem a bit mystified by all the foreigners who are coming to live in their country.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Argentina?

It's difficult to feel apathetic and live in Argentina. It's a country that arouses your passions - for good or for ill. There are days when I'm absolutely in love with Buenos Aires - when random people on the subway ask me about book I'm reading, or when I get into a taxi and the driver has the radio tuned to the tango station. But there are days when the city breaks my heart - when I see people digging through the garbage in the wealthy neighborhoods, when I realize that many of the city's workers have to commute 2-4 hours a day to get to their jobs.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Argentina?

Be prepared for contingencies. Nothing is secure. Nothing is certain. Approach Argentina as you would approach the tango - listen to the music and be at peace with the fact that you have no idea where you'll end up.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Argentina?

I write a blog called 'Go Where the Taxista Takes You' - http://www.taxigourmet.com. Every week I get in a cab, ask the driver to take me to his/her favorite restaurant, and chronicle my adventures (culinary and otherwise).

I also like theargentinepost.com - a great site for staying up to date on the latest in Argentine politics and culture - it's by journalist Taos Turner.

Enda Carey: Irish Expat in Buenos Aires, Argentina

Enda Carey

Irish expat Enda Carey left a career in banking to indulge his passion for travel, something he and his wife have been doing extensively since moving to Buenos Aires, Argentina. Here he shares information on what it's like to live in Buenos Aires, his favorite activities, the prices of some of the local goods, and his observations about how certain things are done there.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

Dublin, Ireland

-In which country and city are you living now?

Buenos Aires, Argentina

-Are you living alone or with your family?

With my wife

-How long have you been living in Argentina?

15 months

-What is your age?

41

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Argentina?

I had been working in banking for 13 years and wanted a career break to do more of my passion (traveling). My wife is from Argentina and the cost of living is low compared to Europe or US so it was an easy choice.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?

No, it's not that difficult to get a work visa - a lot of paperwork but not many restrictions.  

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

I waited until I arrived and although it's not cheap it was easy to get as there are many health insurance companies here.

-How do you make your living in Argentina? Do you have any type of income generated?

Currently not working - the salary here is not good unless you earn dollars, Euros or pounds. Our focus was to use Buenos Aires as a base from which to travel to other parts of South America which we've done extensively.

I'm not working but if you could arrange to get some type of telecommuting job before you come (paid in pounds, Euros or Dollars) - you would be very comfortable here.

-Do you speak Spanish and do you think it's important to speak the local language? 

My wife is a native so obviously I can depend on her to a large extent. I speak a reasonable amount of Spanish. My grammar is not very good but I can make myself understood. My comprehension is not as good especially where more than one person is talking. It's very important to speak the language here - you will miss out on so much if you don't. In terms of local customs - they kiss each other on the cheek here which is difficult to get used to. Guys kiss too if they know each other, otherwise they just shake hands.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes? 

I miss parts of home (the Guinness!) - I prefer the weather here though - there is plenty to see and do here. I play a little golf and I like to walk so there are plenty of opportunities for those activities. There is a good nightlife scene here which goes very late so that is good and bad (the day after)!

-Do you have other plans for the future?

I would like to live in Asia, maybe Hong Kong or Singapore. It's tough arranging that right now with the global recession.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

We own our apartment - A one-bedroom costs approx US$500 per month to rent for a non-national or US$350 for a resident. To buy costs about USD$60K. Mortgages are not common here so people pay cash in full.

-What is the cost of living in Argentina?

Still cheap
$US
e.g. Litre of beer in supermarket = $1.50
Good bottle of young wine = $3
Excellent bottle of wine = $10
Steak & Fries in reasonable restaurant = $8
Subway / bus = 30 cents

but getting more expensive due to inflation and the global financial crisis

-What do you think about the Argentines? 

For the most part they are very friendly and curious of tourists since tourism is still relatively new here (only really started on a large scale after the crash in 2001).

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Argentina?

Positive = low cost of living / culture / great food and wine.

Negative = Bureaucracy / red tape / corruption - It takes forever to get anything done here.  e.g. to pick up a package in the post office took me 7 hours. To pay a simple telephone bill took me 1 hour.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Argentina?

Try to learn Spanish before you arrive (at least the basics) and don't arrive without savings if you're planning to work - you won't earn much money here. Research blogs and info websites before you come so you are aware of the good and the bad. Don't just arrive without being prepared.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Argentina?

http://paddyinba.blogspot.com, has good tips and info for people arriving and planning to travel, and adds a humourous flavour to life here. 

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/banewcomers gives lots of info for expats.

http://www.theargentinepost.com has the latest gossip and news.

 

Evan Kubitschek: An American Expat Living and Working in Argentina

Evan Kubitschek

American expat Evan's expedition to South American landed him in Buenos Aires, Argentina - and he's loving every minute of it there. The minor inconveniences he encounters in no way detract from the pleasure he derives from living and working in BA, where he's content learning the language, writing, and living life. Read on for snippets of this young American teacher/travel writer's expat life in Argentina, and his tips for those of you who might be considering moving to Argentina.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

Born in Houston TX, raised in Asheville, NC, USA.

-In which country and city are you living now?

I'm currently living in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

-Are you living alone or with your family?

Right now I'm living with one roommate.

-How long have you been living in Argentina?

A little more than two months now.

-What is your age?

I'm 23 years old.

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Argentina?

I first came up with the idea when one of my good friends pitched living down here to me (she actually ended up backing out), and I eventually fell in love with the idea.  I always knew that I wanted to travel, and coming here seemed like the perfect marriage of becoming fluent in Spanish and being able to travel South America.  The exchange rate certainly didn't hurt either.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?

The tourist visa down here works fine for me.  It's good for 90 days, and all I have to do to renew it is pop over to Uruguay or somewhere else close.  Great motivator to travel, have to do it every three months anyways right?

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

Medical insurance actually was a breeze, my carrier back in the States covers me just fine down here.  As long as I'm in a major city like Buenos Aires I'll have no problems with coverage.

-How do you make your living in Argentina? Do you have any type of income generated?

Down here I teach English and work for a hostel network (www.MiniHostels.com, check us out!)  The teaching English is fairly easy, mostly business related conversation classes with upper level company workers.  For MiniHostels I write and blog on all sorts of travel-related content, as well as help the company utilize online social media and SEO.  It's a great job for me, since I already do that on my own time with my own blog (www.ExpeditionEvan.com, check me out!). 

Both of my jobs I found after arriving here, I didn't look at all in the States.  Getting my English classes was easy, I sent out about 30 emails one morning to local schools and institutes and had three interviews two days later.  Right now I work for just one school, and almost all my classes are at Accenture, a huge consulting / outsourcing firm.  I found the MiniHostels job through Craigslist, they posted on the job board looking for writers and bloggers. 

I wouldn't say it's difficult to find work down here, as long as you're proactive in your job search and don't get discouraged when you're not hired on your first try.  Craigslist was my main tool, and the rest of my searches were online for international companies with a presence down here.

-Do you speak Spanish and do you think it's important to speak the local language?

I do speak a fairly high level of Spanish, which helps immensely.  I think it's very important to learn the language.  I met a bar owner down here who after two years in Buenos Aires still speaks almost zero Spanish.  Why would someone come to live in another country if they didn't want to immerse themselves in the culture?  I really love experiencing all the quirks and social gaffes that come with living in a new country and a new culture, and I've definitely tried to observe local customs.  If you don't make a little effort you're making all expats look bad.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?

I definitely miss my family and friends, but home as a physical place not really.  I'm not one to dwell on what I can't or don't have, so missing home would just take away from my new experiences down here.  There are a couple things that drive me bonkers, like the lack of peanut butter and other little comforts, but you quickly learn to do without.  I've also learned to love new things that I'll probably miss if I move back to the US, like the amazing steaks and yerba mate.  It's a tradeoff, so you quickly get used to it.

Recreationally I can do most things I did back home here.  I'm a futbol fanatic so being here is amazing, when you have such a great national team and one of the best soccer rivalries in the world (Boca vs. River Plate).  I play soccer once a week and run three times a week, which is about what I did back home.  I also really enjoy hitting up the nightlife in my barrio and playing chess in the park.  There's always a new experience waiting around the next corner and I'm really enjoying hopping around the city still as well.  Honestly I consider living down here on the whole a recreational activity.

-Do you have other plans for the future?

Right now I'm content learning the language, writing, and living life.  Of course I want to travel down here as much as possible (and MiniHostels will allow me to do just that!), so I've got some trips to places like Iguazu and Patagonia in the works right now.  MiniHostels has some big plans coming up so I'm going to try and make myself a part of those, and who knows where it will take me?  I'm along for the ride and loving every minute of it.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

I share an apartment with a roommate and we pay $950 US for a two-bedroom in the centro.  It's a good deal for where we are, and I'm very happy with the apartment.  Most places around us in Palermo cost upwards of $1100 US a month for a two-bedroom.

-What is the cost of living in Argentina?

It really depends on your lifestyle.  For myself, the student lifestyle can be done on $800-900 US a month, if you're good at budgeting and don't mind pinching pennies sometimes.

-What do you think about the Argentines?

The locals are amazing.  I studied abroad in Spain and while the locals there were friendly, it was in a very reserved way.  Here Argentines welcome me with open arms and are really excited to talk about their country and what I think of it.  They treat foreigners like friends and it's very refreshing.  I've even successfully avoided political diatribes thus far!

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Argentina?

The positive aspects more than outweigh the negatives in my mind.  I'm down here learning a new language, exposing myself to another culture and continent, really learning about how other people live, and doing it completely independently.  That was a huge part of the appeal for me initially, just to challenge myself to travel on my own and see if I could really live in another country.  I think travel is one of the most enriching experiences someone can have, and everyone should do it if they have the chance.

There are of course a couple negatives, but mostly inconveniences.  The job market is pretty tough down here, besides teaching English.  I was pretty fortunate to land the MiniHostels job.  You also need to be ready to jump through many a bureaucratic hoop for things like residency, visas, and travel in general.  The way things are run down here can sometimes by mystifying.  But like I said, these are minor inconveniences and I'm loving it down here.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Argentina?

Sure.  I'd recommend coming down here with a decent amount of savings socked away to start, and a decent plan of what you want to be doing before you come.  Don't rent an apartment online before you come down, they'll rip you off.  Get a cheap hostel to start and hit the ground running, it's much easier to find an apartment on your own once you're here.  Be patient with the inconveniences and snags that arise, and you'll quickly learn to appreciate the experience for what it is.  If you're thinking about doing it, I can't recommend enough to just go for it.  It's been a great learning experience for me.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Argentina?

www.ExpeditionEvan.com: My personal blog, I post about three times a week pertaining to whatever random thoughts pop into my head.  Fun read if you like quirky views on moving to another country, or just want to read about my goofy exploits down here.  Let me know what you think!

www.MiniHostels.com: The company I work for, and a great hostel network to boot.  We have hostels all over South and Central America, and we're shooting to provide quality travel tips, advice, and itineraries on our site very soon.  It's a one-stop site for all your accommodation needs here! You'll find hostel reviews, backpacker articles, city advice and information, and travel forums as well.  Lots of new stuff will be starting up in the near future, so be sure to check us out!

Broken Pieces = A Whole World

Jackson Bliss

Jackson, an American expat living in Buenos Aires, doesn't regret moving from Chicago to Argentina for a second, especially since he's found so much energy, so many broken streets and so much material to put in his second novel. Jacskon lives with his girlfriend in Capital Federal, where he teaches English and does translation work. Read this US expat's witty perspective on life in Argentina, learn more about their short-term plans and find outwhat he really thinks about porteños.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

In Traverse City, a picturesque hamlet in the ring finger of Northern Michigan, USA.

-In which country and city are you living now?

Buenos Aires, Argentina

-Are you living alone or with your family?

I moved here with Erika, the raddest girlfriend in the whole world and Zoe, our Shia-Poo, who is possibly the most adorable dog I've ever seen. But don't take my word for it. Come over and spend five minutes with her and you'll agree.

-How long have you been living in Argentina?

Around three months.

-What is your age?

34. I finally passed my Jesus year and I'm so damn relieved. It's too much pressure to put on any one person.

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Argentina?

Who knows? You can't really trace something like that because the birth of an idea really starts decades ago when you're a kid. But the first time I seriously considered packing up my whole life and moving to another country (for the second time) was the summer of 2007. Originally, Erika and I were going to move to Barcelona. After visiting her family in Peru for a month in February, South America started to feel really good to us. Then the economic reality of the Euro-Dollar exchange rate hit us: it kept plummeting and we realized thousands of dollars of our meager savings would simply disappear into thin air. Just like that. The real coup de grâce though was that neither of us had received a single response from employers in Spain whereas several companies had written back in Buenos Aires. Finally, Erika's uncle and cousin lived here so we knew we'd have the traces of a community.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?

Impossible is more the word. Originally, we were going to get work permits but it was too much of a hassle. There is something like eight Kafkaesque steps to working here legally and all of them require you having a job before you get here. Also, I got a job without a work permit so I have no complaints. Lastly, having to renew our 90-day tourist visas was the perfect excuse for us to travel since it forced us to take advantage of where we lived. So instead, we're going to Uruguay and Brazil. Holla!

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

I wouldn't know. We don't have it. Both of us make sure we're healthy and that we eat well so it's not an issue.

-How do you make your living in Argentina? Do you have any type of income generated?

I teach English to employees at Big Bad Businesses. Fortunately, my students are awesome and I get three days off a week to write. I also tutor privately. Lastly, I translate for an international wine magazine. The first two jobs were through Craig's List and the last job was through a professional translator website called ProZ.

-Do you speak Spanish and do you think it's important to speak the local language?

Yes I do, but I still learn something each and every day. My personal philosophy is that no matter what country you visit (whether it's for vacation or to change lines of latitude), you need to learn the language, even if it's just basic words and phrases. Unless you happen to run into an ass, people always appreciate any attempts at speaking their language. It opens them up, helps you connect, and creates a cultural bridge. It's not only a matter of respect, it's also a question of survival. In Buenos Aires, speaking English in the streets can sometimes be a liability. Why advertise that you're a foreigner? You're practically begging someone to steal your purse.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?

God, all the time. But skype does wonders. And we've made friends with both expats and Argentines, so our social community is large and vibrant enough to take the edge off things.

-Do you have other plans for the future?

Hell, yes! We're going to Uruguay and Brazil in the next four months and in April we're flying to Europe to spend a month there. We're going to Paris, Barcelona, Geneva, Amsterdam and hopefully Casablanca if we have enough time to make it to Morocco.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

Our apartment is in one of the coolest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires and we still only pay $570 a month, which includes all utilities, internet, a fantastic location, a free cell phone and a weekly maid service (which feels odd to us, to be honest).

-What is the cost of living in Argentina?

It's gone up a lot since last year but is still much cheaper than Chicago, where we moved from. Unfurnished apartments cost around $250-$400 (USD) per month, especially in neighborhoods with less hype. Furnished apartments cost more but they're worth it considering how expensive it is to buy all of your furniture. If you're a high roller, you have different rules obviously.

Groceries are extremely cheap. We leave the local Coto with 8-11 bags of groceries, filled with some pricey imported food, and we never pay more than 130 pesos ($45 USD). Eating out is still quite cheap but has become more exensive as of late. You can spend $15 USD for dinner for two at a budget restaurant sharing a bottle of mineral water, and $100 at a swanky place with local wine. Electronics, facial products, and any other imports, on the other hand, will cost you two of your fingers.

-What do you think about the Argentines?

Argentines are awesome people because they never hold anything in. In general they're very friendly, charismatic, charming, not to mention perpetually late. They also seem to coo over children and conspiracy theories. I find that if you make an effort to connect with the locals they are friendly and open. On the other hand, if you come here with a chip on your shoulder, a closed mind and remarkably primitive language skills: you'll get back what you give out. But what else is new?

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living Argentina?

Pro's: The cost of living is very affordable, the people are intriguing and beautiful to look at, the food is great (even for vegetarians), time slows down and quality of life goes up, Buenos Aires is cosmopolitan and has amazing energy, there is extensive mass transit, there are health food stores and ways to eat healthy here, tango milongas are everywhere, great conversation seems to happen on a daily basis here, the Spanish spoken in Argentina is gorgeous, the TEFL market is booming, there are strikes all the time, you don't see lots of fake smiles, people don't over-apologize like they do in America and the UK, there's a million used bookstores, and the weather is absolutely fantastic most of the time. Think SoCal.

Con's: There's lots of corruption, theft is ubiquitous, pedestrians do not have the right of way, riding the Subte during rush-hour is like stage-diving in a crowded rock concert (so packed it's ridiculous), there's dog shit on every corner, pollution can be intense in certain parts of the city, there's no place to go jogging, some men can be macho and chauvinistic, tango sometimes feels like a cult for single female expats, everyone smokes, doing laundry can be a huge chore if your place doesn't have a washing machine, there are strikes all the time, the lines at the supermarket are never-ending, bureaucracy (like in most South American countries) is legendary, and people don't apologize when they walk into you.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Argentina?

Don't expect Buenos Aires to be like Paris. Or Rome. What's beautiful about living here is the same thing that's unsettling at times: this city is falling apart at the seams. Buenos Aires has a ruptured majesty about it, borrowing parts of European culture without owning any of it. Some buildings are straight out of the 9th arrondissement in Paris, and then suddenly you'll find yourself in the middle of a construction site that just goes on for 10 blocks. This city is amazing, but all of those European juxtapositions you've heard about are crap. Come here and approach this city on its own terms, just like you would a new relationship.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Argentina?

Sorry for the self-promo but I think my blog/flog does a decent job of showing a few sides of Buenos Aires and Peru from a personal perspective. I post lots of pictures and add personal commentary every week. You can check it out at:

http://waterandsoul.blogspot.com

And here's Erika's blog too:

http://alittlebugsworld.blogspot.com

American expat Jonathan's life and work in Buenos Aires, Argentina

Jonathan Harada
Jon Harada

Jonathan is an American expat living with his girlfriend in Buenos Aires, Argentina, where he runs an online tutorial business. Jonathan describes some of his expat experiences in Argentina's capital and shares some helpful tips on things like learning to speak Argentine Spanish and consumer items someone planning to move there would be wise to bring along.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

Cambridge, MA USA

-In which country and city are you living now?

Buenos Aires, Argentina

-Are you living alone or with your family?

With my novia

-How long have you been living in Argentina?

Little over 2.5 years

-What is your age?

38 years old

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Argentina?

I found myself love struck by an Argentine and decided to give it a shot.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?

Thankfully 90-day tourist visas are given on arrival and easily renewed.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

No. I used travel insurance from the US, but then realized I could save a lot of money by getting local health insurance.  I joined Hospital Italiano just by showing up, signing a form and paying the (much lower) monthly bill.

-How do you make your living in Argentina? Do you have any type of income generated?

The biggest shock for many expats is when they find out what local wage levels are in dollar or euro terms.

Because the opportunity cost is so low, I eventually decided to take a shot at my own business and started an online tutoring company (http://www.tutoramigos.com). It's been one of the best decisions I've ever made.

-Do you speak Spanish and do you think it's important to speak the local language?

I love to learn languages and have lived in Japan and Brazil so learned Japanese and Brazilian Portuguese as well as some basic Mandarin along the way. After several language courses here, I can communicate comfortably in Castellano, but there is always more to learn.

I think it is INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT to speak the local language and respect local customs.  I think of language as a window into the local culture and find it absolutely essential in order to begin to understand the mindset of the locals.

When I say local language..I mean local.  Don't expect to be able to fit in in Argentina with Spanish you learned from Spain, Mexico etc.  The Argentine version is quite different. So if you already speak Spanish definitely put in the effort to pick up the Argentine version, local lunfardo (slang) and all. If you don't speak Spanish, get started on the basics now. It will turbo charge your experience.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?

Sure I do, but thanks to the internet it is now convenient and cheap to stay in touch.  Still I go home at least once a year to see my family and friends.  The internet still can't replace face-to-face or a good hug.

My favorite recreational activity in Buenos Aires is Roller Hockey. There is this forum, http://www.patinenlinea.com.ar, which organizes group skates around the city. I started with those, but eventually joined the pickup hockey games in the Rosedal Park. It's been a great way to get exercise and make friends.

-Do you have other plans for the future?

My parents are planning to come and visit, so I am looking forward to traveling more in Argentina. We're thinking about the NorthWest which I haven't been to yet.

As for business, I'm really hooked on being an entrepreneur. I'm very interested in technology, education and social entrepreneurism.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

Inflation here dates this type of information very quickly these days.  Just be aware, if you have a guarantia (required for local rentals) you are not out of the woods yet.  The standard 2 year unfurnished apartment rental market for centrally located BA is very tight.  Don't be surprised to find a wide range of quality..(read decent to disgusting) at the same price level.

-What is the cost of living in Argentina?

It seems many expats take advantage of the favorable exchange rate and bump up their quality of life. I did the same when I first moved moved to South America, but unless you are earning Dollars or Euros, this gets old quick.

Instead of living the vida loca, we try to live as local as possible.  For example, we rent a modest apartment, cook a lot at home, watch our 3.5 air channels etc.  Since I arrived in early 2006, despite these efforts, I've seen our living expenses rise over 40%. So I'd keep these types of scenarios in mind when building my budget.

-What do you think about the Argentines?

On the whole I think locals are friendly once you get to know them.  Porteños have a reputation for their arrogance. But to me these Porteños are just a few bad apples that spoil the barrel. In the provinces, you would be hard pressed to find bad apples.

I can't speak for how locals treat all foreigners.  As an American, these days we have it pretty tough just about everywhere we go in the world thanks to the Bush administration's foreign policy. Despite this, locals have treated me with warmth and respect as an individual so I give them tons of credit.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Argentina?

Positive aspects: Spending in Pesos when you earn in Dollars or Euros.  Parrillas, Vino, Fresh Pasta, countless cultural activities. Enjoying lovely neighborhoods, parks and the architecture in BA, ease in which you can get around the city without a car, beautiful scenery around the country. Easily renewable tourist visas, moderate climate.

Negative aspects: Spending in Pesos when you earn pesos, economic/political volatility, dearth of authentic Asian restaurants, low levels of trust in business, loud buses, not picking up after their dogs

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Argentina?

Like living in any foreign country, Come with an open mind and prepare yourself to be surprised, amazed, frustrated and intrigued 24 hours a day.  Remember the only thing you have 100% control over is your attitude.

For Argentina in particular, do your homework.  Make sure you bring with you items such as laptops, consumer electronics, etc., because imported products can be more than double the price due to import/value add taxes.

I write more about this topic on my blog, http://tutoramigos.blogspot.com.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Argentina?

My blog:
http://www.tutoramigos.blogspot.com
Topics include: online education, start-up businesses and expat life in Buenos Aires.

My business:
Clases particulares con profesores online en tiempo real.
http://www.tutoramigos.com

Democrats Abroad
Because you can make a difference when you live abroad.
http://democratsabroadargentina.blogspot.com

Fundación Leer
Organization that promotes literacy in Argentina. Check them out for volunteer opportunities.
http://www.leer.org.ar

Interesting political and economic opinion in English from an Argentine in Rosario
http://dfordisorientation.blogspot.com

Tina Tangos living in Buenos Aires as a freelance translator

Tina

Buenos Aires charmed American expat Tina so much that what was only supposed to be a short vacation turned into a decision to live and work - and dance! - there...for the time being, at least. Tina shares what she enjoys about everyday life in Argentina's capital city and offers some tips on adjusting to the local culture.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?

Seattle, WA - USA

-In which country and city are you living now?

Buenos Aires, Argentina

-Are you living alone or with your family?

I came alone and I live with roommates.

-How long have you been living in Argentina?

I landed on Feb 2, 2008.

-What is your age?

31

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Argentina?

I originally came here to spend a one-month vacation (dancing tango and seeing friends). I knew by my second day that I was going to stay longer than a month. It's such an easy city to settle into and I didn't want this to just be a vacation. So I extended it to three months, which turned into six months, and then I decided to just stay put.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?

I'm here on a tourist visa like a lot of others who live here. Have to renew every three months.

-How do you make your living in Argentina? Do you have any type of income generated?

I am a freelance translator (from Italian to English) and I work online. I already had my work with me when I came (via my laptop) which is why I think it was so easy for me to stay. I knew I could be productive and be in a place that I love at the same time. You can't beat that!

-Do you speak Spanish and do you think it's important to speak the local language?

Yes, now I do speak Spanish. Not perfectly but I speak it. I came here once before, in Feb 2007 and took some Spanish lessons, but this time around I just got out there and started speaking. I'm fluent in Italian, so it was easy to pick it up. I'm able to make friends, hold conversations comfortably, etc. Sometimes the accent here is baffling but for the most part, I get it.

I think it is so important to do your best to learn the local language no matter where you go. Speaking the language has opened so many doors for me, both here and in Italy. Armed with the local language, you get to have people in your life who you would not otherwise know. And it just feels so good to be able to do your errands and negotiate and get directions without doing too many charades (which, even with Spanish, I still tend to do. It must be the Italian in me.)

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?

This is my 3rd time living abroad and I can definitely say that yes, I miss Seattle (and Italy) and my family sometimes. I miss the salty sea air and Pike Place Market, my family, good olive oil, international wine selections... I danced Tango in both Seattle and Italy and even though I have the best Tango in the world at my fingertips here in Buenos Aires, it makes me miss my friends back home who came into my life through Tango.

-Do you have other plans for the future?

I'd like to live in Italy again in the future. I am waiting for my Italian citizenship (I have lost track of how long) and once I have that, I will start thinking about it. I was supposed to go sooner (this September) but I just can't bring myself to leave Buenos Aires and I'd rather wait until I have citizenship so I can go as an Italian, instead of having to go through all the Visa stuff. It will be a while.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?

I am renting in a large apartment (in my opinion it's more like a house!) with 4 roommates. It's very spacious and I think only two people are home at any given time. I have managed to save money by sharing a place.

-What is the cost of living in Argentina?

It really depends on which barrio you live in and what your day to day needs are.

Also, sadly, due to constant hyperinflation, any figure I give you today will be obsolete in the near future.

-What do you think about the Argentineans?

I find people here to be genuine (instead of "fake nice"), hard working, welcoming, very straight forward, and very Italian.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Argentina?

Positives:

The produce here is out of this world. The best grapefruit and oranges I've ever had. The leafy greens here are amazing - they have so much more substance and texture than the supermarket greens in the US. I can buy my produce from one of the many verdulerias (green grocers) and most of the time the vegetables still have their roots intact, dirt & all. It feels so real. The beef is wonderful too - not pumped full of steroids, and it's grass fed as it should be. The sweets here are gorgeous - anything with dulce de leche!

The Tango is another huge positive here. It's the best dancing I've ever experienced.

The cafe culture is very special to me - I admire the people's ability to just sit down and savor the experience of having coffee with a friend. You can sit for hours with just one cafe con leche and the waiters will not bother you.

The public transportation is great, albeit a little tricky to use.

There are always people out, walking on the sidewalks, in parks, sitting in cafes - it's a city that is very much alive.

Negatives:

Sharing sidewalks with the locals. I get so frustrated sometimes walking down the street. People don't get out of each other's way and there's a lot of people-dodging going on. Never count on being able to get somewhere fast if you're walking, because you'll most likely get stuck behind somebody who keeps getting in your way. Aah!

There is a lot of harsh reality here, and you have to be a sensitive and grounded person to be able to deal with it. Yes it's a "fun" expat life where you can do just about anything but there are plenty of others who are not so fortunate. People have to work hard to keep up (just barely) with continuous hyperinflation. On the roof of a restaurant not too far from my apartment, is a small cluster of tin shacks that people live in. There are cartoneros at night who rummage through the garbage to take out recyclables which they turn in for a small stipend. There are a lot of abandoned buildings that I'm sure were once beautiful but now have fallen to decay. Argentina has been through a lot in the past century and there is evidence all around. I look at it as a reminder to not complain.

The dog-doo on the sidewalks. I'm always looking down for fear that I'll step into something.

The pressure on women to starve themselves and have plastic surgery.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Argentina?

Learn Spanish.

Be sensitive to the fact that most people here do not have the luxury of dividing the prices by 3.

Eat flan con dulce de leche for dessert and don't feel the least bit guilty.

Be prepared to be overwhelmed. It is an intense city where a lot of things are going on at the same time. Just take it easy and try to soak it all up. When all else fails, eat helado.

Keep up with the current events here - there is always something happening and it will affect your daily life.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Argentina?

Get your Tango lyrics here: http://www.todotango.com

Vote from abroad (US citizens): http://votefromabroad.org

Tangocherie in Buenos Aires

Cherie Magnus

American woman Cherie has been living in Argentina for nearly four years now, where she works as a tango instructor and writer in Buenos Aires. Read about her thoughts on various aspects of the everyday culture of this Argentine city and learn from tips she shares, not only on living in Buenos Aires, but on living in another country and making the most of the experience.

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?
Los Angeles, CA, USA

-In which country and city are you living now?
Buenos Aires, AR, in the barrio of Boedo

-Are you living alone or with your family?
I live with my American cat, Phoebe, who I brought from Mexico and who came with me from L.A.

-How long have you been living in Argentina?
Almost 4 years

-What is your age?
Mmm-m-m-mature!

-When did you come up with the idea of living in that country?
Mexico was getting too expensive and besides there is no tango there, so it was only natural that one day I would come to Buenos Aires.

Actually I don't like the words expat or expatriate; there's just such a negative sound to them, you know, like ex-con, or ex-wife, ex-promqueen, even ex-millionaire.

Expatriate sounds as if I've been kicked out of my country, or I left it because I hated it, or I failed somehow, something bad, an exile, you know? It's even worse when it's mistakenly spelled expatriot, which connotes even more being against one's country, a spy or terrorist or something. If Paul Revere was one of our greatest patriots, who would be our greatest expatriot?

I guess I don't want to be an ex-anything.

I would prefer a more positive-sounding word to explain that yes, I moved to France, and to Mexico, and to Argentina to live. I'm thankful for the opportunities I've had to learn and enjoy other cultures and languages, but I still think the U.S. is the best country in the world despite its faults. Sometimes you have to leave it to appreciate it.

I know, maybe I'm a multipatriate! How does that sound?

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?
I’ve been here for more than 3 years, and only now am getting all the required papers in order to apply for a long-term visa. Each time I show up with my file, they want another paper I didn’t know about.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?
Yes, because I have the pre-existing conditions of two cancers, which are in remission. But finally I succeeded. It’s not cheap, though.

-How do you make your living in Argentina? Do you have any type of income generated?
I work here as a Tango Tour Guide and as a tango teacher with my porteño partner, Ruben Aybar. We get our students from recommendations and word of mouth, also when people see us dancing in the milongas (the tango halls). We were lucky enough to have been Finalists in the 2006 Campeonato Metropolitano del Tango de Buenos Aires, coming in #15 out of the more than 500 couples to qualify, and that helps to bring us more students.

Finalists in the Campeonato Metropolitano 2006

-Do you speak Spanish and do you think it's important to speak the local language?
Yes, I’ve tried to forget my Mexican Spanish, which didn’t help me much, and am fairly fluent in Castellano. My partner doesn’t speak English, so when we teach, I can translate as most of our foreign students speak English.
I can’t stress too strongly how important it is to learn local customs and to blend in with the people. Much behavior can be explained by understanding the culture.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?
I have two sons in California and of course I miss them tremendously. I also miss my friends, job, the restaurants (!), the markets, the way of doing things in the U.S. Sometimes you have to leave it to appreciate it. But I also miss my friends in France (where my husband is buried), and my friends in Mexico. Travel is too expensive, especially from South America, to jet around various continents for vacations and to see people. Unfortunately it’s also very expensive to travel within Argentina, and I would love to know the country better, but so far haven’t been able to get out of Buenos Aires often.

-Do you have other plans for the future?
Ruben and I have had many invitations to teach in other countries, and I am looking forward to that. However, the chances of traveling to teach in the U.S. are small despite our many offers, because nowadays it’s almost impossible for an Argentine to get a U.S. visa.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?
I’m living in my third rental 2-bedroom apartment in three years. It is very difficult for a foreigner to rent an unfurnished place here long term because all the landlords want a guarantee of someone who owns property in Buenos Aires. My rent is 1200 AR pesos/mo, expenses (condo fees) are almost 200, and of course all the utilities. As a foreigner without a long-term visa, I can’t even open a bank account.

I love the apartment where I am! It’s on the ninth floor with a large L-shaped terrace with a barbecue and an incredible view! The sunsets and sunrises are amazing! It’s quiet and high enough that the pollution doesn’t bother me. Since we teach in my living room (little furniture, mirror), some days I never leave home!

Almost all of my permanent expat friends have bought houses or apartments here, some with the idea of renting rooms to tourists, but now that market is over saturated. I wish I could have purchased something when I first arrived, though.

-What is the cost of living in Argentina?
It goes up every day. Labor is cheap (for example, a maid, hairdresser), but products, especially imported ones like food items and electronics, are sky high.

Almost everything there is to buy is made in China. If you want quality, you can find it if you search, but you have to really pay. That goes for clothing, as well, but thank goodness I brought enough clothes to last my lifetime. Tango shoes are a good purchase, however, as the most beautiful and the best quality are under $100 US. Tango tourists usually buy several pairs, often extras to sell in their home countries.

-What do you think about the Argentine people?
There are good and bad people everywhere. I have good Argentine friends, and of course, my partner is Argentine. My only problem is that sometimes I get frustrated with trying to express myself in Castellano, and my friends need a lot of patience. But generally the Argentines have a lot of patience.

The biggest challenges, always, are the language and culture. If you don’t feel secure in communicating, you might opt to stay home or socialize only with English speakers, thereby missing out on a lot. Expats, even if they know the language well, always risk making faux pas because of not understanding the culture. But if you stay home alone, you risk loneliness and feeling isolated. It’s a conundrum.

In addition, sad but true in “third world” countries, all Americans are considered rich, with prices adjusted upward accordingly. Here it’s even official policy with some things: Teatro Colon tickets for foreigners are double, and Aerolineas Argentinas have a two-tiered price system.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Argentina?
Transportation around Buenos Aires is my biggest challenge, even after almost four years of living here. The city is huge, all the streets are one-way, and even though they have an excellent system of public transportation, it’s not easy to figure out how to use it.

Anyone who has the opportunity to live in another country is fortunate. What an opportunity to learn and understand, and I am grateful.

The people of Buenos Aires, or porteños, are generally ethnically European and feel strong ties to Spain, or Italy, or Germany, or England, or wherever. They’re self-conscious imitators at times such as in their architecture of a hundred years ago and wide boulevards, sidewalk cafes, and outdoor newsstands. And I think they have very strong subconscious feelings about being so far geographically from that world, especially nowadays when few can afford to tour Europe on vacation. Argentineans feel a bit forgotten by the rest of the world, and so their culture is somewhat nostalgic and sad. That’s where the tango comes from. I identify with these emotions as I’ve lost so much in my own life.

I thought when I moved here in 2004, that I needed a big city, full of theater and concerts and galleries, but I find now that my life is full with friends, my reading and writing, and my tango work.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Argentina?
As in everything else in life, sufficient money not to have to worry makes everything easier. It’s not realistic to become an expat with the idea of finding employment in the new country to support yourself, even more so if you are middle-aged. My advice is expatriate yourself only if you are financially independent. In my case I had early retirement because of my illness.

In many respects, because of dancing and writing, I’ve had an easier time living far from “home.” When I moved to Mexico, I had the goal of finishing the memoir I began when living in France. Last year I accidentally started writing a blog, which helps me feel connected to like-minded people all over the world. And because of the internet, many of my articles written far from home have been published. Next year a piece I wrote will be published in an anthology on San Miguel de Allende, Mexico.

Basically since my husband died in 1991, I’ve been searching for “home,” like Dorothy in Oz, I suppose. But a few years ago I realized that Home Is Where My Cat Is. Phoebe, I couldn’t have done it without you!

Every country has its expat network, whether it’s an online mailing list or a club where people actually get together. When you first arrive, I recommend joining everything and meeting as many people—expat and local—as possible. Soon you will figure out what activities, and which people, are your style.

Making friends anywhere isn’t easy, especially as we get older. That’s why it’s important to look for common interest groups. I joined Toastmasters International in Buenos Aires because it has always been a life-long dream of mine to speak well in public, and in so doing I’ve met some wonderful, varied, and interesting people. Looking for groups that you belonged to in your home country, like the Lions, for example, or a tennis club, is a great place to start.

I’m lucky in that the world of tango is small, and anywhere I go in the world to dance, I find people I know, or at least recognize.

Wherever I go I have a lot of parties in my home. I love bringing people together. Volunteering is a great way to meet people, learn the culture, and to feel good about yourself

I think the key to success as a guest in another country is to participate, participate, participate.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Argentina?
Writing my blog, tangocherie,

http://tangocherie.blogspot.com

has really helped me feel connected to the rest of the world. I love helping people understand what life is like here in Buenos Aires.

A few excellent blogs for people wanting to know more about life in Buenos Aires are:

Buenos Aires Argentina Guide
http://www.buenostours.com

Living in Argentina
http://www.livinginargentina.com
a great reference site with info on everything you’d want to know

Buenos Aires, City of Faded Elegance
http://baires.elsur.org

Buenos Aires Daily
http://www.akworld.net/webblog
a new photo every day

German expat Coog's early weeks of living in Argentina

Coog

There are many reasons why Coog finds it ideal living in Buenos Aires, Argentina: the laid-back attitude of the people and the weather are just two of them. This German expat shares her thoughts about expat life in general (such as the importance of learning the local language) and some of her early experiences as an expat in Argentina (including some of her interactions with the locals and favorite things to do in the city).

Interview Questions:

-Where were you born?
Frankfurt/Main, Germany

-In which country and city are you living now?
I live now in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Before that I lived for 3 years in Dublin, Ireland.

-Are you living alone or with your family?
Alone

-How long have you been living in Argentina?
I only moved over 2 weeks ago.

-What is your age?
32

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Argentina?
I wanted to live here since I spent 3 months here about a year and a half ago, I just liked it. I am not very rooted in my home country, nor have I been in Ireland and I don’t have family; I like the idea of being able to live where I want to.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?
I don’t have one. For people like me it’s almost impossible to get one – "like me" means someone without a company contract beforehand and not bringing a good amount of money and a business plan into the country. I’m here on a 3-month tourist visa for now. That was definitely the easier part about living in Dublin, since I’m an EU citizen.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?
I don’t have medical insurance. I didn’t have one for most of the time when I was in Dublin either. I know people think that’s risky and crazy, but you have to see that many people around the world live in a system that does not include insurance. It’s kinda hard to find somebody to insure you when you move around so much. Normally, if I go to the doctor I pay cash. If there’s an emergency you get treatment here in the hospitals. As soon as I have income I will check out the other options.

-How do you make your living in Argentina? Do you have any type of income generated?
In Dublin I went looking for a job and it took me a month to find one. I was basically on the internet every single day, sending out my CV. Once I tried an agency but I didn’t find them helpful. I found it quite stressful altogether because I didn’t have any more savings. I then worked as a QA tester for 3 years altogether.

In Buenos Aires I’m taking a TEFL course; they usually help out afterwards with the job search. I will see how that goes, but in the end I’m open to take on any other job if I have to. So far, I’ve always been able to support myself. I still have enough savings to pay my rent for a while, so I don’t have to have full income straight away.

-Do you speak Spanish and do you think it's important to speak the local language?
I do speak the language. There’s a lot of room for improvement so I study daily. I don’t see how it works for people to live in another country and not speak the language. To me it’s absolutely essential. Not only will one hardly be able to socialise with the locals, they will also miss a great deal of the culture and life there in general. I can’t imagine how somebody could want that. I guess if one retires and sees his expat life as some sort of extended holiday, it works.

Of course, it’s important to respect and observe local customs. You don’t necessarily have to like them or make them part of your daily routine but you might in the end. It might enrich your life. And if not at least you will grow into a better understanding of how people work. Things are always different in different countries and there’s nothing worse than expats who complain day and night about how much better everything is in their country.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?
I don’t have family but I do miss my friends. But then nowadays people are moving and travelling so much, it’s not unusual to have friends abroad and restrict the communication to internet and an occasional phone call.

Here in my free time I do the same things I used to do in Germany or Ireland. Reading, watching movies, communicating with friends, going out, strolling in the city – just here I stroll in the city more because the weather is better than in Ireland and going out is a bit more excessive than in Germany.

The only thing I do now that I haven’t done before is working on my BsAs-blog, obviously.

-Do you have other plans for the future?
I’m not done with travelling but I hope I am done with the moving. To me BsAs is an ideal place to live for several reasons.

I do have some ideas concerning business but I think I won’t take a close look at my opportunities there before I haven’t even had a steady job for a while.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?
I’m renting a furnished room in someone’s apartment. I live on the upper floor, have my own bathroom and a balcony which is fantastic. We have WiFi, that’s a big advantage. My flatmate (and landlord) is nice, we get along really well.

I pay 200 USD a month. The subte is around the corner and so is the supermarket and everything else you need. It’s 15 minutes to the center on the subte. I think it’s a good deal and I got it because I want to stay long-term. For foreigners it’s not that easy renting a place here, let alone for local prices. I think I saved myself a lot of trouble going for this place – we got in contact online, btw.

-What is the cost of living in Argentina?
Like most things, that depends. Speaking for myself, I pay 600 Pesos rent, food (supermarket and self-cooking) is about 200 a month. Going out, eating out, public transport, smoking habit…I can live ok off 1500 Pesos a month I think, that’s 500 USD. But that’s different for everybody, really.

-What do you think about the Argentine people?
I love the locals. Seriously I do. Apart from some immensely sweet individuals I have met here I just like that smoothness about them. It’s not like they don’t have problems or a bad day but the overall impression is that people are just trying to relax and have fun anyways. They don’t really seem to give a s*** about a lot of things. I don’t know how many people here die of heart attacks but I can’t imagine it being one of the major causes of death.

They usually treat us nicely enough. Of course some more and some less and sometimes people can get very rude to a foreigner or impatient but many times you find people who are patient and interested and that balances it out. I must say, I experienced and heard of a lot more racist attacks in Dublin. Sure, I only just moved here, but altogether I spent 6 months in Argentina and I would still rate it as friendly when it comes to foreigners.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Argentina?
I can’t really tell, I don’t have a list, I guess it’s very much about personal preferences. Like to me the weather alone is a good reason to live here. Other people might be more interested in the economy (which is not stable but apparently there is a good market for business) or in the house prices.

Personally, I feel very well here, I like the city, I like the people, and if I want my peace and quiet I get it. To me the structure of being makes more sense to me here than in my hometown and in Dublin. I think it’s because here it’s just part of everyday life if things are old or don’t work and it doesn’t really matter. People don’t run around grumpy and complain all day because things don’t work.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Argentina?
I suppose that readers would rather be from Europe, the US, New Zealand than Perú, Bolivia and Uganda, so…if you want to come over so you can soon brag with a lifestyle that you couldn’t afford back home, don’t expect anybody here to love you for it.

I’d recommend learning the language and being respectful. That goes pretty much for every expat in any country. Things work differently here.
For example, I had a 3-hour conversation with an Argentine that I had met for the first time last night and not once did either one of us ask ‘So what do you do for a living?’ I couldn’t imagine that happening in Dublin or Germany, that no one asks that question within the first 10 minutes, because people define themselves much more over their work. Different things matter in different places, that is.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Germany?
My blog is Coogling Buenos Aires, where I write about my everyday life and experiences in BsAs. There’s a Linklist with my favourite blogs. Check out Rob’s and Diva’s blog. Rob is a US American who recently moved to BsAs and lives there with his German girlfriend. Diva is a porteña and frequently writes about everything you always wanted to know about BsAs-and a few things you didn’t want to know. Very funny, both of them.

Living in Argentina: An experience in South American culture and sophistication for American expat Maya

Maya Frost

-Where were you born?
Castro Valley, California, USA

-In which country and city are you living now?
Buenos Aires, Argentina

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