Rob's experiences and thoughts on being an American expat in Stuttgart, Germany

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For American expat Rob, settling down to live in Stuttgart, Germany, was not all too difficult. Here he shares many of the ups and some of the downs of living with his wife in a city that holds a multitude of fascinations for him--socially, culturally, and commercially speaking, as well as a host of tips for people who might be thinking about moving to Stuttgart.
 
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Rob

February 19 2007

-Where were you born?

Biloxi, Mississippi, USA

-In which country and city are you living now?
Stuttgart, Germany

stuttgart, germany-Are you living alone or with your family?
With my wife

-How long have you been living in Germany?
Going on three years.

-What is your age?
48

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Germany?
I was going to graduate school for translation studies. When it came time to do my internship I went to Fulda, Germany for six weeks in the summer of 2003. At the time I had been talking with my fiancee (now wife) in a binational chat room. When I told her I was coming to Germany we decided to get together in Berlin. The romance of Berlin took over and we were engaged within a couple of weeks. She's a practicing psychiatrist, so along with my translation degree we decided Germany was the ideal place for us.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?
My wife made it all extremely easy. She guided me through all the bureaucracy and I had my residency and working papers within a couple of weeks. I thought I was fluent from my studies, but I was tongue-tied talking with actual bureaucrats.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?
I was included on my wife’s insurance automatically. I’m continually amazed at how good the health care is here.

-How do you make your living in Germany? Do you have any type of income generated?
I make my living as a translator. It took me about a year and a half to develop a steady business. My computer has an ADSL connection. Then I need only a phone, printer, fax, scanner, etc. Office space isn’t a problem since I work at home. I work mostly with agencies but I have a few private clients. Of course, it hasn’t hurt that my wife has a steady income. I designed a webpage, but the only responses I get are from translators looking for work. Sorry, I just started.

-Do you speak German and do you think it's important to speak the local language? 
I speak nearly fluent German but don't speak the local Lingua Franca. Swabisch is a language unto its own. In town Hochdeutsch is the norm. The farther away you are from town the more Swabsich you need to know. It gets very provincial. Until you get the hang of Swabisch, you might want to do your banking, etc. closer to downtown.

If you’re coming from a laid back culture, get rid of your casual attitude and save yourself from awkward and embarrassing moments. I have asked people in my own apartment building how they were getting along and was asked in return if I had mistaken them for someone else.  Asking wie geht es Ihnen without knowing someone just isn’t done.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?
I don't have much family back home. I have a couple of sisters who are quite a bit older than me and we don't keep in contact much. I have an extended family here now.

Since I’ve made my home here I get out to Königstraße pretty often. It’s the greatest pedestrian area I’ve ever seen. I can take a pocketful of euros and have a blast watching the buskers. It didn’t take long too see the acts were put on by pros. For a medium-sized city Königstraße is cosmopolitan, there’s even a Starbucks strategically placed on Königstraße (good luck getting a seat). Steffi and I will order a couple of frappes and cheesecake and just enjoy the sights and sunshine. We bike the forests that ring around Stuttgart. We roll our bikes onto the train (off rush hour) and ride out to our favorite trails. We’ve spent whole days riding. There are some country restaurants where we have a radler (beer and lemonade) before pedaling home. We hike and fly kites in summer on a small nearby mountain range.

When we can afford it we eat out at Pier 51. It has the best food and atmosphere in Baden-Würtemberg. We also go to watch the classical concerts at the Liederhalle once a month. I never liked classical music but hearing Beethoven’s 5th played in his homeland changed my mind instantly.

-Do you have other plans for the future?
I’ve made my home here and my wife and I plan on starting a family. My business is growing slowly and steadily to the point that I am being offered some long-term opportunities. We usually travel twice a year. Lake Constance is only a few hours away and Austria is just on the other side. We traveled to Altaussee a couple of years ago, which is probably the most romantic place in the world. This year we plan to head up to the North Sea coast and enjoy some of the island life there.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?
We rent a 3-bedroom flat on the east side of town, which is in an upper/working class area. Our rent is about 700€ a month “kalt” (utilities not included) which is a good deal. The rent for a small 2-bedroom flat will run anywhere from 450€-600€ and a top line flat will go for 1500€ or more. There's a greater chance utilities would be included in that deal. When you rent a flat here you bring all your appliances, including light fixtures and wardrobes. Closet space is pretty much a foreign concept here. 

-What is the cost of living in Germany?
It's about the same as in the States. Higher taxes make the cost of everyday life more expensive but not having to own a car and not worrying about health insurance makes up the difference. The price of food is not that much different, unless you shop at the organic stores. If you want American food, good luck. In fact, anything you see labeled as “American” tastes terrible.

-What do you think about the Germans?
The locals are a good sort of people underneath it all but many are reserved to the point of seeming unfriendly. It’s a cultural feature from antiquity. Don't think you’ll change anyone. If you speak German you can joke around, but don't think you’re a friend yet. Understand jokes are a lot different here, so discretion is the better part of valor. As a rule, conversations on trains and buses are not a good idea. You might see people acting open and friendly, but with close friends or family. It’s just reserved, not unfriendly.

There are a lot of Vereins (clubs) suited to any taste and if you are going to be here for a while, join one or two. It will open doors. Swabisch culture, including freetime, is organized. An exasperated American expat wanted to see NFL playoffs and asked if I could help him. Sure enough, there was a club for him.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Germany?
The transportation system is world class, punctual, clean, safe and comfortable. Train passes cost 60€ a month. My wife feels safe enough to walk alone at night and for once, so do I. There are organic food stores and outdoor markets everywhere; a pharmacy and doctors office on almost every corner; go up the block for some rolls and coffee in the morning before work. Everything we need is within a few blocks and walking is a pleasant way of life.

The only negatives I can think of are the reserved culture and the Swabisch dialect.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Germany?
Travel as much as you can. Get up to Berlin, go over to Munich. Get down to Austria, find yourself in Finland. It is a lot cheaper to get around here than in the States. It would be a shame to come to Europe and not experience all the cultural diversity possible. East Berlin is pretty cool and a cheap place to get some culture.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Germany?
My blog is 3rd Floor #20 Life in Stuttgart.  It's my personal blog about my life and times as an expat. I post a picture or two and write a few lines of what's going on in Stuttgart from a personal point of view.

A blog with links to all things Stuttgart is at Stuttgart Blog.

A great German blog, written in English, is German Impressions.

Thanks for Sharing.

wilclancy's picture

I will be moving to Stuttgart next August. I can't wait! Thank you for the insight.

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