Marianne is an American who was born and raised in the USA, but she'ss presently living in Vietnam--her father's homeland. Her fascination with this country led her to the city of Hanoi, where she works for a nongovernmental organization and where she finds pleasures in the simplicities of day-to-day life. Here, she talks about her activities in Vietnam, her observations about Hanoi, the work she does, and her optimism for the future of this developing nation.

Marianne Smallwood

January 26 2007 

-Where were you born?
Austin, TX (USA)

-In which country and city are you living now?
Hanoi, Vietnam

-Are you living alone or with your family?
I live alone.

-How long have you been living in Vietnam?
Eight months, but will be here for another year and a half or so.

-What is your age?
24

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Vietnam?
My father is Vietnamese (my mother is Filipino) and I’d always been intrigued by his stories of his trips back home or business dealings in Vietnam. I’ve wanted to move here for a long time but graduated from university with the idea that I should get a responsible, “real” job first. I did that for two years, but the desire to come to Vietnam refused to dissipate. So, I applied for a fellowship to work in Vietnam and moved here in June of 2006.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?
No, but I’m working here through a fellowship called Princeton-in-Asia, which helps match candidates with working institutions. The fact that I’m a PiA fellow made obtaining a visa that much easier.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?
No, but again, I’m with a fellowship that helped to provide me with health insurance prior to arriving in Vietnam. If you don’t have insurance, you can pay for services out of pocket (but that can be expensive).

-How do you make your living in Vietnam? Do you have any type of income generated?
I work as a Systems Officer for an NGO called ChildFund, which focuses on aiding communities to create and sustain improved living conditions in impoverished areas. Haha, that sounds like such a sell but it’s honestly what we do! As I mentioned before, my position with ChildFund is through Princeton-in-Asia, a competitive program that pairs qualified candidates with organizations (business, NGO, media, and teaching) in various Asian countries. The application process was about 3-5 months of waiting and interviewing, but it was worth it. PiA is a reputable organization in Asia and has partnerships with a lot of great agencies and organizations. However, I do have friends who simply up-and-moved to Vietnam without an agenda and were able to find jobs, either volunteering, teaching English, etc., which can often foray into other possibilities.

-Do you speak Vietnamese and do you think it's important to speak the local language?
I didn’t speak Vietnamese prior to arriving but am now taking lessons. It’s not 100% necessary to speak Vietnamese, though in NGO and business positions, it’s certainly helpful and sometimes even required. However, it’s easy to get by not knowing Vietnamese (many expats have lived here for a long time without a working knowledge of the language). I’m of the opinion that living in a country is enhanced by knowing the local language, so learning Vietnamese is a priority for me. It IS a difficult language, though, so it’s not without its frustrations!

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?
I sometimes miss my home and family--I especially miss my mother’s home cooking! I’ve lived apart from my family a few times before, though, so it’s not entirely different from other things I’ve done. We’re very close, though, so it’s sometimes hard being away from life changes and things going on with friends and family.

As far as recreational activities, Hanoi is a smaller city and doesn’t have a bustling nightlife that cities like Saigon or Bangkok are more known for. I drink a lot of coffee with friends here (as do most people in Hanoi), read books, study Vietnamese, take weekend trips within Vietnam, and spend time with friends I’ve made in Hanoi.

-Do you have other plans for the future?
After working at ChildFund, I plan to go back for post-graduate studies in the US, likely in International Relations or something similar to that. During Tet (Vietnamese New Year), some friends and I are headed to Cambodia; I’m also seeing a few friends in Kuala Lumpur in a couple of weeks. Though Hanoi can be an expensive destination to fly into and out of, it’s worth it when you realize how much you’d otherwise be spending to fly to a place like Thailand or the Philippines (from the US or Europe).

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?
I live in a shared house with two others expats and pay $150 USD (per person) per month. I live in a cheaper house, though, and other friends of mine pay $200-300 for a shared house in Hanoi. Apartments can be spendier--in fact, renting and living for expats is expensive and on the rise in Hanoi- and a one-bedroom apartment can cost $400 and up.

-What is the cost of living in Vietnam?
Apart from renting, costs of living are generally low. Going out and eating out at restaurants can be as low as $1-3 USD to $30 USD (depending on where you eat). Street food is in abundance here and is (for the most part) safe, tasty, and cheap. If you want cheap pho here (the traditional noodle soup), you can find it. If you want Indian food, you can find it. If you want a fancy dinner, that’s also available. You can live as cheaply or as lavishly as you want to in Hanoi…there’s something to suit all tastes.

-What do you think about the Vietnamese?
The locals treat foreigners quite well. Apart from occasional staring, I haven’t encountered any animosity or distant treatment. On the contrary, friends of mine that ‘look’ American or Western are often approached in a very friendly, inquisitive manner by Vietnamese of all ages.

One thing that does take getting used to is the very blunt and honest manner of speaking that the Vietnamese have. It’s not a faux pas to ask anyone their age, weight, marital status, etc., nor is it unusual for some sort of commentary to follow their question. For example, after a few weeks of indulgence in ice cream and cakes in Hanoi, my co-workers jovially noted that I was “fatter” than before and maybe should cut down on the sweets. It’s completely normal for that type of comment to be made!

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Vietnam?
Positive: Vietnam is a truly amazing country that is moving and changing in numerous ways--economically, socioculturally, etc. It’s a beautiful place to live and is very humbling, poor, dynamic, gritty, and still getting to its feet. However, it can be difficult to live in Vietnam and I do hold a certain bias (as I’m part Vietnamese).

Negative aspects can include a lot of attention (especially if you look Western), lack of certain amenities (central heating, Mexican food, and other silly things that I’ve missed as an American), cultural differences, and distance from family and friends. Living as an expat can be rather lonely at times; the distance from the “real world” back home can make a person feel rather isolated.

On the whole, I’ve found my experience in Vietnam to be charming and wonderful and I am excited to spend the next year to two years in Hanoi. I should warn that I’m very optimistic and glowing about Hanoi. A few other friends who have been here for longer and shorter amounts of time have had more complaints or changing feelings than I have. Sentiments about living in the country will differ with every person, their motivations, the time they’ll be here, and how they approach living in Vietnam. It will depend on the person as far as how happy (or not) they’ll be.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Vietnam?
When moving to a country, pick a place that you think you’ll be happy in and have at least some interest in learning about. It’s easy for expats to move to Vietnam, get fed up with little things that accompany living in Hanoi, and then become insular with other expats (frequenting the same ‘nice’ places or just staying in). That’s not the best approach for living abroad if your intent is to learn about the country or the culture. Be open, acknowledge that there will be differences in what you’re used to versus where you’ve moved to, and just go with the flow. It can be a rush at times, a miserable experience during others, and occasionally mundane. But that’ll happen everywhere and I really believe it depends on each person’s approach, intent, who you surround yourself with, and the support group (friends, co-workers) you develop in your time in-country. Vietnam may be one of the most charming countries I’ve ever visited and I am humbled, educated, and fascinated every day that I am here.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about Vietnam?
* My blog: Pho From Home
* Comprehensive food blogger in Hanoi: Sticky Rice
* Non-profit for street children in Hanoi: Street Kids in Vietnam
* Well-known Brit blog about a non-profit for street kids: Our Man in Hanoi