Anna's experiences as a long-term American expat in Nice, France

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What's it like to live in a world-famous resort area like Nice in France? Anna, an American, tells us. She's been living in Nice since the start of the 21st century, working as a writer and translator. The place has its highs, it has its lows. Anna accepts Nice for everything it is and now calls it home.
 
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Anna Stevenson

April 02 2007

-Where were you born?
Springfield, Oregon, USA

-In which country and city are you living now?
Nice, France

-Are you living alone or with your family?
Living alone, with my cat

-How long have you been living in France?
I've lived in Nice since 2000 and also studied in Lyon for a year, for my French degree. In all I've spent eight years in France.

-What is your age?
30

-When did you come up with the idea of living in France?
I came up with the idea when I was twelve! I studied French throughout middle and high school, then earned my Bachelor's Degree in French language and literature. My university offered exchange programs in France, so I took the opportunity to spend a year in Lyon. I've stayed in France because I love the country and have carved out an enjoyable career for myself here, though I did also spend two years living in Helsinki, Finland.

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?
It was stressful to bring together all the documentation and wait for the answer more than anything else. I've been very lucky; all the people who have handled my visas and residence permits have been kind and helpful, and I've never had a problem.

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?
No, because I went through a university program that was very well-organized. Once I started working, I was on French national health care.

-How do you make your living in France? Do you have any type of income generated?
I started work as an English and French teacher, then moved into translations, which I've done since 1999. I was a freelancer for six years in France, and did on-site work for one IT consulting company in particular that worked out well for everyone involved. Eventually they offered me a position as a senior technical writer (in English) and translator. I've just started doing project management with them.

I mainly used personal connections and websites to find translation work. My personal website has been one of my biggest assets. As for my current position with the IT company, it was a series of complicated coincidences – I wasn't looking for it, but my experience and motivation helped.

It is very difficult to find an office job, for a wide array of reasons – I wouldn't recommend anyone come here without having first found a position. Being a freelancer in France requires a lot more administrative paperwork than in the US, but otherwise it's not much different (you find clients yourself, etc.).

-Do you speak French and do you think it's important to speak the local language?
I speak French fluently. You can get by without it, but life is much easier when you speak the language. I think it's very important since it shows respect for the country you're in. On the business side, my fluency in the language and customs is one of the main reasons that I get work with French companies. It's only natural – you get along better with people when you make an effort to understand them and communicate well. Language and culture are fundamental to that.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?
France is my home. Of course I miss my family, but it's rare to live near family nowadays – most people can relate, whether they're two hundred miles away or twenty thousand.

Recreationally, I did a lot of cycling in Oregon, and continue to do so here in France. There are a lot of trails good for mountain biking around here. The French Riviera is also a great place to go hiking, swimming and scuba diving, which I also enjoy.

-Do you have other plans for the future?
I plan to visit Spain (never been there and it's nearby), Italy, Germany and Norway some time in the future.

I've never had firm business plans, they always seem to take care of themselves and develop in a way that makes me happy. I just continue to work on what I love, do my best, and remain open to unexpected opportunities.

-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?
I'd like to buy a place here, but the housing market would have to crash in a big way before I would be able to afford that (unless I get lucky). I don't even look at housing prices any more, it's so depressing here – the average prices have gone up 50% in the last three years (yes, three – statistic taken from a recent Nice Matin newspaper article).

I rent a 32 square meter (350 square foot) apartment with a small balcony in the Nice city center, and have great landlords who ask a reasonable (not typical) rent for it, just over 500 euros a month – that includes electricity and water.

-What is the cost of living in France?
I spend anywhere between 50 and 100 euros a week on groceries (just for myself), but I go out of my way to buy organic foods and eco-safe products, which are more expensive. I only eat in restaurants once or twice a month (15-30 euros per meal). Clothing, home decoration and such are pretty much like any other big city. I don't have a car, and only spend 40 euros a month on public transportation, which includes my 30-euro-a-month bus pass for work!

Internet is fast and cheap: I pay 30 euros/month for 15Mbps download/1 Mbps upload ADSL, which includes free phone calls throughout France and to many other countries (including the US, hurray). I have a minimal mobile phone subscription that costs 7 euros a month, with ten free minutes to call others, after which I pay about 20 cents a minute (I never use all my free minutes though).

I don't even think about medical costs anymore because it's so reasonable with French national health care (sécurité sociale). I still get light-headed with disbelief when I get prescriptions filled and it costs nothing. (Seriously. Nothing. As in zero.) The only thing I really pay for is my gynecologist, who's truly excellent and so costs more than the usual: 30 euros out-of-pocket (after the national health care refund) per yearly consultation. Mammograms are 7 (seven) euros out-of-pocket.

-What do you think about the French people?
I could write a book with my replies. It depends on tons of different factors, just like in any country. In general, I'm treated no differently than any other local, even when people know I'm a foreigner. If anything, the French people I've met have been more curious and talkative when they learn that I'm American.

The problems have come when I return to the States, with random Americans who insult me when they find out I live in France (it happens regularly, even in the Pacific Northwest). But I've never once been insulted for my nationality in France. I've dealt with uninformed stereotypes, always posed as questions asking if it's "really that way," even from the most ignorant, but never insults.

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in France?
Again, I could write a book. My favorite positives are the natural beauty throughout the country, the food, the wines, the culture and history, the wide variety of unique local products, and the health care. The main negatives that come to mind are the haughty, superficial attitude of many people living on the French Riviera (not just French people!) and French bureaucracy.

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in France?
Yes, loads. My main tip is to speak the language and learn about the culture – it helps immensely.

-Do you have any favorite Web sites or blogs about France?
I write my own blog, where I often discuss many of the questions I've answered! It's at chroniques d'une fraise, and lists other blogs I enjoy reading.

hello I enjoyed reading your

celine nesjan's picture

hello I enjoyed reading your post.
I am interested in moving to nice myself. I am a RN , however with no working knowledge of the language. any ideas, suggestions would be extremly helpful. thank you
celine

Nice

Cathy's picture

Hi, I found your post very interesting. I visited Nice for the first time a couple of years ago. I absolutely fell in love with the city and the local culture. It was nothing like I expected. I bought an apartment there "off plan." Construction is supposed to be finished in July. It will be so nice to have my own space when I visit. I live in the Pacific Northwest I have made a couple of friends in Nice. One (she's French) has been emailing me photos of the progress of construction on my apartment complex. I would like to meet some Americans who live in Nice. Do you have any suggestions on where to find them? I'll be there for a visit in October.

Thanks,

Cathy

Replies

fraise's picture

Celine -- in medicine, I think it would be extremely difficult to find work here without speaking French. The exception would be if you found a position with an English-speaking firm, of which there are very few (I don't know any personally because I always go to French doctors). You would have to look into any eventual formalities for being a nurse here as well.

Cathy -- I only know one other American in Nice. There are plenty of American tourists in Vieux Nice. I've never looked for any nationality in particular.

Relocating to Cote d'Azur

tonjahughes's picture

Bonjour Anna,

Je suis heureuse de lire votre poteau. A ce moment, j'habite a Seattle et espere demanager a la region de Cote d'Azur. Je suis americaine dans les communications de ressources humaines, marketing et la publicite. Quelles sont les chances de trouver l'emploi avec mon experience?

Pouvez-vous s'il vous plait recommander les compagnies qui louent et replacent des americains a la region?

Merci beaucoup.
Tonja

health unsurance in France for a foreiner

Tatiana Radulescu's picture

I live and work in USA for 15years, and I have double citisenship (romanian too). I am a a PhD in chemistry an going to retire soon.
I love USA but I do not like the way intelectuals are treated.
By contrary in Europe there is different aproche. Besides, Romanians use to be francofones before everybody become americanised.
I learn 8 years french in school.
every think looks OK!, how about medical insuranse?
Can you help me to figure out?
Best regards and a lot of Thanks for uor ideas.
Tatiana
ps

I love your point of view

Sophie Hebert's picture

Hello from St Laurent du Var,
I am French and used to live in Detroit, Mi. My 8 years experiment in the state taught me a lot about my citizenship and french way of life. Today, I don't feel French any more because I have realized that those clichés do not reflect my personality and behavior. Travelling and living abroad is also a way of extanding life perception and opening your mind to foreigners.
Best regards.
Sophie

Moving to NIce

Tatiana's picture

Hello Anna and Tatiana!

I am a Romanian living in US (La Jolla, California) since 1978. This april we visited Nice with my daughter. When I retire, in a few years, i want to return to Europe and as a European Union citizen I hope it will be easy to seattle in Nice. I hope that you Tatiana will get there before me, so there will be more romanians to start cooking ciorbe (romanian sour soup) and sarmale (stuffed pickled cabbage leaves)!

I just cannot wait to be able to have ALL the fantastic pastries and the best cafe noisette i can possibly dream of!

I will keep reading Anna's blog, so I can be in touch with what is going on en Provence.

My best to you,

Tatiana Popescu

Vieux Nice

DonHolm's picture

HI, I rented for 2 months in the Old Town and loved it. My wife and I had a little girl 1 year ago and named her Martine, because we want to move to Nice and thought it might help her fit in. I speak functional french after some classes and studying. I'm writing to you because I am curious if there are marketing jobs at your work for fluent English speakers. I hold a master's degree in advertising/marketing and know quite a lot about Internet marketing. I have 15 yrs. of corporate marketing exper. as well. Please let me know.

Thanks and I enjoyed reading your blog. To us, Nice is the place the feels 'right' to us more than anywhere else in the world.

Merci Beacoup,
Monsieur Holm

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